Wine with Leslie: Celebrating Portugal's astounding wine culture
Pic: iStock
The schools are out and the summer holidays have begun and this means hordes of Irish people are flying to the Algarve.
I have huge fondness for Portugal and its wines, I love how they have stayed true to their native grape varieties with under 10% of Portuguese wine made from international varieties such as Merlot and Chardonnay.
So don't expect Syrah and Cabernet, instead watch for Touriga Nacional, Trincadeira and Aragonês/Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo), and in whites look for Arinto, Antão Vaz, Encruzado, Verdelho and Alvarinho.
Portuguese reds sell much better in Ireland than their whites which is a pity as their whites are generally fragrant, textured and fresh - the exact characteristics that make a white wine interesting in my book. No tart Sauvignons or wishy-washy Pinot Grigios here.
Portugal offers everything from flavourful Alvarinho and lively fresh Vinho Verde in the north to long-lived complex reds from the Douro (not to mention Port).
As we move south you will find tangy Dão whites (from Encruzado) and layered fragrant Dão reds (from Alfrocheiro, Tinta Roriz and Touriga Nacional).
In Bairrada you will find the intriguing Baga grape which is Portugal’s answer to Nebbiolo, while around Lisbon (Lisboa) you will find juicy ripe red and whites for around a tenner.
The Sétúbal peninsula offers honeyed moscato fortified whites and rich Castelão reds from Palmela, while Alentejo is all about ripe fruits struck through with layered complexity.
Portugal in my experience is eminently reliable and one of the few regions (along with regional Spain and perhaps the Languedoc) where I feel I can take a risk in a discount supermarket.
Two of the wines below are from Grace Campbell Wines which is now owned by Michael O’Brien following the retirement of Kevin O’Hara.
I’ve known Michael for 20 years and I’m delighted their wines will continue to be imported - this page would be poorer without them.
I recommend his lively Rocim rosé and a gorgeous red from Herdade dos Grous from the Alentejo.
Michael stocks wines from the Douro and elsewhere but I particularly like his Alentejo selection.
The Monte de Peceguina range with their gorgeous labels are also recommended and I’ll feature the current vintage soon.
All the Portuguese wines below are low on price and big on flavour.
It’s summer holidays for many people so time to mention this juicy boxed wine from O’Briens. The regular 75cl bottle costs €10 so there is a notable price saving. I recommend keeping it in the fridge or in a cool place to bring out the lush soft red and black fruits - expect blackberry with a touch of cloves.
This wine has won medals at the NOffLA Gold Star Awards and is always reliable. A mix of grapes depending on the year but usually including Arinto and Antão Vaz - ripe pear and tropical fruit aromas, textured and fleshy white fruits with white peach and melon balanced by tangy apple acidity.
Portugal makes lots of pale and fuller flavoured Rosé but for some reason, our rosé shelves are dominated by France and Spain. This is a lovely example made from Touriga Nacional and Aragonez (Tempranillo), ‘oeil de perdrix’ pale pink, lively cherry and cranberry aromas, bright and juicy with a pleasing tang of dried apple
From a 50-50 blend of Arinto and Antao Vaz, a third of the juice was aged in French barriques to add roundness and spice rather than blunt flavours. Lemon curd with creamy vanilla aromas, textured palate with lemon oil, ripe pear, tangerine touches and crisp apple acidity. The Capela Tinto is also recommended.
A blend of Alicante Bouschet, Syrah, Touriga Nacional and Aragonez from a beautiful resort estate in Alentejo. This pours a dark purple with rich blackberry, blueberry and cassis aromas which follow through on the palate. Lush dark fruits, supple and plummy with some structure and freshness for balance. Delicious.
Mary Pawle has imported Lopez-Ribeiro wines from Dão just south of Porto for over 20 years now - organic pioneers and now biodynamic. This is bright, fruity and juicy with vibrant dark cherry fruits and soft berries, full-flavoured and ripe with pleasing lush fruits - perfect for grilled lamb chops or bbq.
Following on from MarieAnn McLoughlin-Dwyer’s Runway28 Gin which I reviewed a while back, this is her new berry-flavoured Pink Vodka. Distilled at Listoke in Co. Louth and inspired by historic female aviators such as Amelia Earhart who created their own paths “if you don’t have a runway, grab a shovel and build one yourself” as she said (paraphrased).
This pours a pretty pale pink and has red fruit aromas with background herbal notes - smooth on first sip with prickly lemon and garrigue herbs followed by a pleasing red berry peppery kick on the finish. This makes an excellent Cosmopolitan (add Cointreau & Cranberry), and mixes nicely with tonic or fresh lemonade.
