Wine with Leslie: a good year for wine - or the onset of climate change?

At this time of year all over the Northern Hemisphere, winemakers have their fingers crossed that the fruit has set on the vines and over the next two months these tiny berries will grow into fat juicy grapes.
Wine with Leslie: a good year for wine - or the onset of climate change?

Pic: iStock

All the warm weather this past May-June has been welcome - but I can’t help wondering is this a lucky year or is it climate change?

At this time of year all over the Northern Hemisphere, winemakers have their fingers crossed that the fruit has set on the vines and over the next two months these tiny berries will grow into fat juicy grapes.

One vigneron with her fingers crossed is the bundle of positive energy that is Caro Feely of Château Feely in Bergerac. Caro and husband Sean bought their rundown estate plus 14ha of vineyards in 2005 and she has diligently recorded her journey in a series of books.

The latest, Cultivating Change: Regenerating Land and Love in the Age of Climate Crisis, is an engrossing and thoughtful read. Caro is searingly honest about everything, from her relationship with her husband to her relationship with her soils.

There is a cantankerous neighbour armed with a shotgun, handsome farmworkers and brazen libidinous Americans plus the devastation hailstorms can wreak on a small organic farm.

I recommend Caro’s Sensualité Rosé this week — enjoy it because there will be none until 2024 as hail wiped out the 2022 crop. 

There is however a Méthode Traditionelle Brut Rosé to look forward to from Merlot grown on a north-facing slope. Caro has aged this on its lees for an impressive 14 months and promises strawberry, citrus and fennel notes — I’m excited, and I’ll review it once it arrives here in a couple of weeks.

Caro’s book is also a memoir of her time in South Africa and years living in Ireland before the move to France, along with food, yoga, love and heartbreak and I recommend it.

Caro’s wines are to be found in organic specialists such as Urru in Bandon, Little Greengrocer Kilkenny, Organico in Bantry and in independent wine shops. 

Suggestions this week include Terroir Feely Rosé and a selection of organic and sustainable wines I love, including my first wine recommendation in a recyclable can, perfect for picnics and festivals.

Wines Under €20

Oníric Pet-Nat Rosé, Catalunya, Spain, 25cl - €7.00
Oníric Pet-Nat Rosé, Catalunya, Spain, 25cl - €7.00

Oníric Pet-Nat Rosé, Catalunya, Spain, 25cl - €7.00

Stockists: MacCuratin Wine Cellar; Organico; Urru; Toonsbridge Macroom; Taste Castletownbere; Neighbourhood Wines; Sonas; Vintry.

I’ve featured this Pet-Nat before but not in its natty new cans which arrived in Ireland recently. There is also an excellent floral blanco Xarel-lo & Muscat version. Dusky pink-orange colour, strawberry and pink grapefruit aromas, crisp and deliciously fruity with a chewy-citrus kick on the finish. Summer in a glass.

Château Petit Roubie Picpoul de Pinet, Languedoc, France - €15-16.00
Château Petit Roubie Picpoul de Pinet, Languedoc, France - €15-16.00

Château Petit Roubie Picpoul de Pinet, Languedoc, France - €15-16.00

Stockists: Quay Co-Op; Fields Skibbereen; MacCurtain Wine Cellar; Ardkeen; Connemara Hampers; Organico; Mortons; Taste.

Picpoul de Pinet comes into its own in the summer, especially with dishes like moules-frites and fresh crab on brown bread. This organic wine was the best Picpoul I tasted last year — salty lemon aromas with a touch of kiwi and cooked pear - textured and fruity with crisp lemon acidity.

La Maldición ‘Tinto-Fino’, Vinos de Madrid, Spain - €16-17.00
La Maldición ‘Tinto-Fino’, Vinos de Madrid, Spain - €16-17.00

La Maldición ‘Tinto-Fino’, Vinos de Madrid, Spain - €16-17.00

Stockists: MacCurtain Wine Cellar, Green Man Wines, A Taste of Spain, Strandfield flowers, Wicklow Wine, 64 Wine, Fumbally, Liliput, SIYPS.com.

La Maldición means ‘The Curse’, a reference to the difficulty accessing this high altitude organic vineyard and tending its ancient vines. A blend of Tempranillo and local Malvar, this has floral berry fruit aromas, bright juicy flavours, and oodles of character.

Wines Over €20

Terroir Feely ‘Sensualité’ 2020, Vin de France - €22.00
Terroir Feely ‘Sensualité’ 2020, Vin de France - €22.00

Terroir Feely ‘Sensualité’ 2020, Vin de France - €22.00

Stockists: Little Greengrocer Kilkenny; Connemara Hampers Clifden; marypawlewines.com.

Made by Irish winemakers Caro and Sean Feely on their Organic Biodynamic Estate in Bergerac. Fermented on wild yeasts, unfined with just a light filtration and is of course vegan and natural. Packed with red fruit aromas and flavours, savoury and rounded with a delightful balance of red fruit, texture and acidity. Warmly recommended, as is Caro’s book.

Azul Y Garanza Garciano, Navarra, Spain - €18.95
Azul Y Garanza Garciano, Navarra, Spain - €18.95

Azul Y Garanza Garciano, Navarra, Spain - €18.95

Stockists: Matsons; Ardkeen; Mannings Emporium; Little Green Grocer; Vintry; marypawlewines.com

From the same organic winemaker as the Oníric Pet-Nat above but this time from Navarra. A blend of fragrant spicy Garnacha and dark powerful Graciano - aromas of dark cherry and blackberry, supple and juicy on the palate with low sulphur and big gobs of sweet fruit balanced by acidity.

La Fage La Rétro, Côtes Catalanes, France - €20.00
La Fage La Rétro, Côtes Catalanes, France - €20.00

La Fage La Rétro, Côtes Catalanes, France - €20.00

Stockists: O’Donovans; JJ O’Driscolls; Basil Market & Deli Cork; Baggot St. Wines; Wineonline.ie; McHughs; Independents.

Originally the ‘house wine’ of the family as it came from grapes picked at the end of the harvest from the cooler slopes. A co-fermented field blend with bright juicy berry fruits — supple and fruit-focused with a pleasing glou-glou freshness suited to warm days — feel free to serve chilled.

Spirit of the Week

Powerscourt Distillery Fercullen Single Malt, 46% ABV - €55.00
Powerscourt Distillery Fercullen Single Malt, 46% ABV - €55.00

Powerscourt Distillery Fercullen Single Malt, 46% ABV - €55.00

Stockists: Celtic Whiskey Shop; IrishMalts.com; McHughs; CarryOut; Independents; Powerscourtdistillery.com

I’ve featured Fercullen here before but this is their first whiskey release entirely from their own distillery and made from local barley — Fercullen believe this release is the first Wicklow distilled whiskey in over 100 years. Distilled in 2018 and aged in Bourbon casks, just 6000 bottles have been released

This pours a light gold with aromas of caramel and honey, vanilla and allspice — smooth on the palate for such a young whiskey, butterscotch and caramelised apple flavours with spice and pepper notes on the finish and good length. If this is how good a 3 year old tastes I’m looking forward to future releases.

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