Wine with Leslie: Here are the wines I will be sipping this Christmas and New Year

From now until Christmas I will be suggesting some of my favourite wines to suit not just Christmas Dinner but most of the other food we eat in a typical December
Wine with Leslie: Here are the wines I will be sipping this Christmas and New Year

Selections this week include the Tommasi Lugana which I think would make a fine match for shellfish such as crab claws or lobster on the Christmas table. 

From now until Christmas I will be suggesting some of my favourite wines to suit not just Christmas Dinner but most of the other food we eat in a typical December.

In next week’s ieFood magazine, free with next Saturday’s Irish Examiner, I suggest pairing Christmas dinner with a red and white Châteauneuf-du-Pape from the same producer. This got me thinking that you could do the same with a rich Amarone and perhaps a fruity Soave or Lugana from a Veneto producer. 

O’Brien’s Rizzardi range comes to mind — a producer I mention a lot because O’Briens keep their prices so keen, but also Zenato if you can afford a bit more.

Earlier this year, I tasted my way through the wines of another great Veneto producer Tommasi — a family-run winery whose wines I should feature more often. These days they have branched out a little and own a brilliant estate in Montalcino and another in Basilicata which makes a floral, tropical-tinged Falanghina.

Selections this week include the Tommasi Lugana which I think would make a fine match for shellfish such as crab claws or lobster on the Christmas table. 

This Lugana is made from 100% turbina, a new name for what we used to call trebbiano di Lugana. I somehow missed this name change, despite featuring two Luganas during the summer (the Rizzardi from O’Briens, and the widely available Zenato — Ca del Frati’s ‘I Frati’ is also excellent). 

It turns out that trebbiano di Lugana is not quite identical to verdicchio as previously thought, although the two grapes are closely related.

I warmly recommend Tommasi’s Amarone below which has under 5g of residual sugar which is drier than is usual. I love Amarone but given that it is made with 100% dried grapes you will often encounter significant residual sugar (up to 12g is permitted) which is not to my taste.

I didn’t have room for Tommasi’s Brunello di Montalcino but it is worth seeking out. Instead I recommend their Rosso di Montalcino which Dunnes Stores have at the great price of €15.99. Also this week are other Tuscan wines I enjoyed recently including two from the Carpineto range which is widely available in Independent off-licences who need our support this year more than ever.

Wines Under €16 

Volpetto Chianti Riserva 2018-2019, Tuscany, Italy - €12.95

Stockist: O'Briens 

This is reduced from closer to €20 and is excellent value. Classic red fruit, morello cherry and blackberry aromas, crunchy and textured with juicy, red and black fruits on the palate, with a savoury bitter tinge and touches of spice. This will happily suit cold meats as a starter or perhaps with pepperoni pizza.

Casisano Rosso di Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy - €15.99 - €17.99

Stockists: Dunnes Stores; Selected SuperValu; Blackrock Cellars

Rosso di Montalcino is the baby brother of Brunello di Montalcino which drinks earlier and is more approachable in price. This is from one of the highest vineyards in Montalcino and has Inky dark red fruit aromas, with liquorice tinged berry notes but on the palate red fruits come to the fore such as raspberry and strawberry, ripe and layered red liquorice and lively taut fruits.

Carpineto Originale IGP Toscana, Italy - €15 - €16

Stockists: 1601; Vintry; World Wide Wines; Cashel Wine Cellar; Redmonds, McHughs; Deveneys.

This is due to go up but you will still find it at €15 in some shops. This is Carpineto’s house wine so to speak with a dose of Merlot (I reckon) to balance the Sangiovese. Elegant and fruity with moreish floral red fruit and pleasing structure and concentration. Try with Spag-Bol or on its own.

Wines Over €16 

Tommasi Lugana, Veneto, Italy - €17.99 

Stockists: Jus de Vine; LaTouche Wines; Wineonline.ie 

Made from 100% Turbina, a new name for what we used to call Trebbiano di Lugana from vineyards facing onto beautiful Lake Garda. Tropical fruit aromas, grapefruit, citrus and peach notes on the palate, creamy and fresh but with bristling acidity. A fine match for a seafood risotto, shellfish or smoked salmon.

Carpineto Rosso di Montalcino, Tuscany - €32-33.50 

Stockists: 1601 Kinsale; Deveneys; World Wide Wines; Cashel Wine Cellar; Redmonds, McHughs

From what is claimed to be the very highest vineyard in Montalcino which helps bring out the classic rich red fruit character. Floral, black cherry aromas with a lively fruit-focused palate with more dark cherry and some strawberry coulis notes - balanced, concentrated and elegant as is always the case with Carpineto.

Tommasi Amarone 2018, Veneto, Italy - €47 - €50

Stockists: O’Briens; No. 21; 1601 Kinsale; Whelehan’s Wines.

Tommasi’s Amarone is a little drier in style - this has a garnet centre, cherry and ripe berry aromas and pleasing darker fruits on the approach. Ripe and bitter cherry fruits appear on the mid-palate and lively cherry skins linger on the finish - beautifully drinkable despite those concentrated fruits, this also displays elegance and finesse.

Spirit of the Week 

Jameson Single Pot Still, 5 Oak Cask Release, 46% ABV, 70cl - €60 

Stockists: Widely available offline or via midletondistillerycollection.com 

This is a fine new addition to the Jameson range and is a throwback to the style that Jameson would have used in its early years. 

The Single Pot Still style means a mix of malted and unmalted barley and this version is matured in Sherry and Bourbon casks plus Virgin Irish, American and European oak casks for extra character.

Light chocolate and spice aromas hit the nose first with background honey notes, fruity and zesty on the approach followed by salted caramel and tangerine - the finish that begins with honey and vanilla and ends with hot spices such as nutmeg and clove.

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