Meet the Armagh-born chef who revolutionised food in a historic West Cork hotel
Eddie Attwell with some of the food grown in the polytunnels on the grounds of the Eccles Hotel in Glengarriff. Picture: Emma Jervis
Following chef Eddie Attwell through polytunnels to explore herbs, vegetables and other GIY delights, it strikes me that after hundreds of years in business the Eccles Hotel is certainly not stuck in the past, though it is glancing back to stride forward when it comes to sustainability.
The landmark four-star hotel in Glengarriff, West Cork overlooks the breathtaking bay and may seem a surprising location for food innovation, but that’s exactly what Armagh-born Attwell has achieved within its storied walls and, most interestingly, in its gardens. The award-winning chef, who honed his craft in two Michelin-starred establishments, is relishing the freedom he has now to grow produce and experiment with the food he prepares in his kitchen.
“We’ve been growing our own food for a few years now,” he says, sweeping an arm towards the hill into which the hotel is built where he says more land is being reclaimed and repurposed to expand their kitchen garden. He points out a Victorian-era greenhouse they unearthed, noting how they are essentially following their predecessors' example by sowing their own seeds here. Today, most of the produce on Attwell’s menu is picked fresh each day from the hotel’s garden and polytunnels, or else it is foraged locally or supplied by local artisan food and drink suppliers.
It’s a passion he brought with him from his own home where he and his family delight in their own yield. “We grow vegetables at home and my little girls love growing carrots - they feed the large ones to the horses near their school.” Carrots can also be found growing at the Eccles, as well as other vegetables like tubers, plus herbs and flowers, all of which end up on diners’ plates or garnishing their drinks. Attwell points out a few herbs that would elevate a standard gin and tonic, for example, as we pass by.
Attwell says he is fortunate the owners of the Eccles, Ray Byrne and Eoin Doyle, share his vision and allow him the space to get creative with the polytunnels and within his kitchen. He draws on years of experience as a renowned chef, having spent time in the two-star Michelin restaurant L’Enclume in Cumbria as well as featuring twice on the BBC’s Great British Menu.
Attwell has ensured the Eccles has gained a reputation for its food offerings under his leadership in the kitchen: he was named West Cork’s Local Food Hero in 2019 and in 2020 the hotel’s breakfast was a national winner at Georgina Campbell’s National Breakfast Awards.
Before joining the team in Glengarriff, Attwell tells me he had only worked in restaurants previously and didn’t quite know what to expect with the new venture. However he finds he has more opportunities to wow guests in a hotel. “If you can feed someone for breakfast, lunch and dinner I think you can make more of an impression than feeding someone who goes to a restaurant for just one meal,” he says.
During his time in the UK, he soaked up as much knowledge from each kitchen he worked in and some sage advice from one mentor stuck with him: “When you start teaching me things it’s time to move on,” Attwell recalls, adding he followed that advice and went on to advance his own career and become the head chef of his own kitchen.
Most importantly though, Attwell has fun with his food. He tells me some people were left scratching their heads at first when he worked hard on making sauces and purees only to “hide them” under the food on plates. “They’re meant to be eaten together, they aren’t just decorative,” he says of the surprising flavour hidden within his dishes. Of course, the proof is in the pudding, and he says no one questioned it after their first taste. It’s something I noticed too the night before as I sampled his menu at the hotel’s restaurant. Course after course of sumptuous food danced on the palette, as the mix of fresh, local produce and inspired pairings made for a most memorable experience.
Elsewhere around the Eccles Hotel, more modern touches can be found, but always with a tasteful nod to the building’s history and heritage. Recently refurbished during lockdown, the comfortable bedrooms feel modern but retain a thoughtful nod to the building’s centuries-long tenure in Glengarriff.
The addition of a wellness spa and stunning rooftop outdoor thermal area is inspired, and an afternoon hut tub session is something I can heartily recommend – even in the drizzling rain, as I discovered.
Bookings are available online with bed and breakfast rates at Eccles Hotel and Spa starting at €150 per night. www.eccleshotel.com.
