Italian job: Eight pesto sauces put to the taste test 

"It was easy to eliminate quite a few jars from our Top 8 as they were grainy and stringy, some with little flavour. Happily, we found many decent examples to add to our cupboards."

Picture: iStock 

Pesto means pounded (where the word pestle comes from), giving us a clue to the ancient beginnings of this famous sauce. We can make it with fresh basil, as in Genoa, where it originated, but also parsley, wild garlic leaves, spinach and kale. Pine nuts are traditional too but can be expensive, so substitute with peanuts, almonds or cashews.

Stay local with rapeseed oil instead of olive oil, or sunflower oil for a lighter texture, though olive oil works best for me.