Wine with Leslie: As prices go up, here's how to save some money on fine wine
Wine Spark was created by Eamon Fitzgerald and the idea is simple: pay a monthly fee of €10 and you can order quality wines at significant discounts.
The good news is that we have almost made it through January, the pubs and restaurants are open again, and the evenings are noticeably longer.
However, it is not all good news, as importers tell me that wine prices are on the way up in 2022 due to increased energy costs, a significant increase in the costs of materials from packaging, to bottles, to shipping containers — and, of course, the fact that many wine regions had a very poor harvest in 2021.
But back to good news. A new Irish wine company called Wine Spark (winespark.com) launched in 2021 and the idea behind it is highly intriguing and will save you money on fine wine. Wine Spark was created by Eamon Fitzgerald who for many years ran the hugely successful Naked Wines in Britain. The idea is simple: pay a monthly fee of €10 and you can order quality wines at significant discounts.
Wine Spark builds in the costs of VAT, duty, warehousing and home delivery into their wine prices (to the exact cent), but that’s about it — no extra margin is added and the remaining operating costs such as salaries are paid from members' monthly subscriptions. Delivery is next day via UPS and the ‘spark’ bit according to Fitzgerald is ‘bringing the customer closer to the winemaker’.
I met Eamon in early January and tasted through a selection of his wines and I have to say I was impressed. Prices start at €11 but the sweet spot in the catalogue is €15-25 so Wine Spark is very much aimed at enthusiasts. Minimum order is 6 bottles, next day delivery is included in prices, and subscriptions can be cancelled at any time. It sounds like there should be a catch but there really isn't, especially as monthly subscriptions have become the norm for everything from newspapers to movies.
Thanks to his previous job, Fitzgerald has forged strong connections with a lot of interesting producers and some are not just selling him wine but have invested in the business. Producers such as Burgundy's Jean Fournier, Swartland's Carinus Family and Baldassari from Sonoma County have stellar reputations and Wine Spark’s price is a good 60% lower than I would have expected. Besides the wines recommended here also watch for Zillinger from Austria and Evoi from Margaret River among others.
Wine selections this week are four from Wine Spark that I particularly liked and two bargains to tide you over the weekend.
Stockist: Wine Spark winespark.com
Swartland is one of the hippest wine regions in the world right now and this producer also grows grapes for a number of famed producers including the Sadie Family. From 40-year-old vines this is aged for 12 months in old oak: creamy lime fruit aromas jump from the glass, textured and complex, with lovely weight and complexity. A steal at this price.
Stockist: SuperValu
I haven’t mentioned Finca LaBarca Rioja in a while but at this price (down from €16) I feel it deserves a mention. From 100% Tempranillo this classic Rioja has lots of spicy American and French oak on the nose mingling with dark cherry and soft plum fruits: juicy and elegant on the palate with crunchy warming fruit flavours balanced by structure and spice — perfect for a chilly evening and a pot of stew.
Stockist: O’Briens
This is on offer this month and down from €19. From the sub-region of Salnés, the coldest and most Atlantic influenced of the five sub-regions in Rias Baixas and sourced from the Paco Y Lola Co-Op. Ripe pear and apricot aromas this is soft and almost lush on the palate with pleasing pear and apple fruits on the palate and a salty zingy-fresh finish.
Stockist: Wine Spark winespark.com
This is Wine Spark’s best selling wine and the winemaker is an investor in the business — an encouraging sign. German Pinot Noir rarely disappoints and this is a lovely example pitched at a very good price point. Perfumed red fruit aromas with just a hint of forest floor, ripe and juicy, supple and clean with a hint of clove and tar on the finish. Delicious.
Stockist: Wine Spark winespark.com
Winemaker, Serena Cordero, is much in demand as a winemaker (as is her dad), and this is a pet project of hers that has not been sold outside Italy before. Black cherry and berry fruit aromas with hints of violets: ripe concentrated fruits on the palate — and, of course, the expected kick of lively Barbera acidity on the finish to provide balance.
Stockist: Wine Spark winespark.com
This is another relative bargain given the normal cost of good Californian wines here — Wine Spark reckons this would cost €45 with normal markups. From a cool climate region with Pacific influences, this has blackberry and black fruit-gum aromas with a touch of black pepper: supple and soft on the palate with creamy ripe cassis notes and layers of elegant fruit. Probably my favourite of the wines I tasted.
Stockists: Independents, Castle Tralee, nutsaboutwine.ie, Molloys, Martins, Celtic Whiskey Shop celticwhiskeyshop.com, blackirishspirit.com
Black Irish is a triple distilled Irish Whiskey that has been cut from cask strength down to 40% ABV with stout (in part) rather than just water. The original whiskey was aged in deep-charred Bourbon casks and the stout is described as ‘strong’ and ‘barrel-aged’.
The result works much better than expected. Black Irish pours a light treacle colour and has rich coffee and chocolate aromas mingled with malted barley and whiskey. This hits the palate softly with creamy mocha flavours before light bitterness kicks in followed by some spice and warmth from the whiskey. Good neat or mixed with cola or ginger ale.
