Wine with Leslie: Bollinger in short supply but these red wines will ensure a merry Christmas
The disruption to global supply chains has meant there are problems getting wines from countries such as Chile, New Zealand and Australia
The rumours are true: there is no Bollinger Champagne this Christmas. So, if you spot a bottle, snap it up as their importer used up their 2021 allocation too early this year. Cristal is also in short supply but don’t despair as most other brands are available, especially Supermarket brands, Grower Champagne and solid houses like Charles Heidsieck, Veuve Clicquot and Pol Roger.
It is not just Bollinger, however, the disruption to global supply chains has meant there are problems getting wines from countries such as Chile, New Zealand and Australia. And Sauvignon Blanc is in short supply — you may need to switch allegiance from Chile to the Loire.
Wine retailers had a bumper 2020 with more than 10 million cases sold (up 28%) but 2022 sales so far are down 11%. Harvest problems, energy and packing costs have led to price increases and 2022 will be worse as 2021 harvests were well below average. Add in that minimum alcohol pricing arrives on January 4, 2022 and my advice is to buy while you can.
Jean Smullen of Retail News was my source for much of the above — do listen out for Jean, Mick O’Connell MW, Dean McGuinness and myself on ‘Movies and Booze’ on the Sean Moncrieff show every Friday afternoon on Newstalk 106. We take turns and I’m up next Friday, December 11.
Meanwhile, Penfolds had their first tasting here in a few years. The 2018 Yattarna Chardonnay (€170) is creamy and ripe with layered white peaches and lemon oil not unlike a light Meursault. Bin 389 Shiraz-Cabernet (€60 from Dec 6 in O’Brien’s) is drinking nicely already with green pepper and blackcurrant aromas, chewy cassis, and black fruit flavours with crucial balancing acidity and a surprising lightness of touch. Bin 389 is often called ‘Baby Grange’ as the wine is aged in Grange barrels from the previous year.
Grange 2017 meanwhile (€650 in O'Brien's) is a touch more floral than some previous examples I’ve tried but, as usual, lived up to its iconic status: violets, liquorice and mocha aromas, layered blackberry and silky sweet berry fruits — and even a touch of purple skittles on the finish.
Recommendations here include a few Christmas €15 bargains plus more from Penfolds which are on offer in the O'Brien's Fine Wine Sale which begins on Monday. Also watch for Fourcas Hosten 2011 (€22), D'arenberg Dead Arm (€44.95), Chanson Puligny Montrachet (€50), Château Gloria 2016 (€60), Castillo Ygay 2010 (€120) and lots more.
Stockist: SuperValu
Reduced from €16, this tastes a whole lot better than a tenner. McLaren Vale near Adelaide is warm but with cooling breezes and its Shiraz is generally ripe and vigorous — this is a solid example despite the low price. Ripe spicy dark fruits with cedar and chocolate notes, supple and juicy with bright blackberry fruits and lingering toasted oak and black fruit gum flavours. A potential turkey wine.
Stockist: SuperValu
One of a couple of André Goichot wines on special offer this Christmas — their Pouilly Fuissé has also appeared here in the past. Fleurie is easily the best known of the 10Beaujolais Cru and this is a decent example well worth its price. Red fruit aromas with a touch of cherry and raspberry on the nose and light red fruits on the palate. Suitable for mid-week pizza and pasta dishes.
Stockist: O’Briens Stores nationwide
Nessa and Laurent Miquel’s wines appear here often because that they are consistently well made and value for money, but I admit I also like the Irish connection (Dunnes Stores also stocks some of their wines). This has ripe aromas of dark fruits and a hint of tar, the palate is juicy and vibrant with berry fruits and a touch of dark chocolate on the finish. Excellent value.
Stockist: O’Briens
Château Kirwan is a 3eme Grand Cru Classé made in a ripe vigorous style and the 2017 vintage is on sale from Monday at €65 (from €73). Charmes de Kirwan is the second wine and is down from €40 and shows much of the character of the top wine, if perhaps a little less richness. Ripe and textured with big blackcurrant and blackberry fruits and lingering spice, and mint chocolate notes. Delicious.
Stockist: O’Briens obrienswine.ie
Bin 28 is a multi-regional Shiraz blend (e.g. Mclaren Vale, Barossa Valley, Padthaway) with no new oak; first introduced in 1959 so with a history almost as old as Grange and at a great price (down from €38). Bright cherry, date and chocolate aromas, structured and crunchy but packed with luscious primary fruits and lingering bramble and black wine gum flavours. A treat.
Stockist: O’Briens obrienswine.ie
Also a multi-regional wine dating from the 1950s, and an alternative expression of Aussie Shiraz to Grange, a sort of counterpoint. No new oak so dark fruit aromas with a hint of road rubber on the nose, ripe, rounded and textured but remarkably smooth — creamy, layered and ripe with black black fruit flavours and not a little elegance in its lingering finish. Normally €110 but €95 from Monday, Dec 6. Treat yourself.
Stockists: Bradleys, Blackrock Cellar, Barnhill Stores, Gibneys, McHughs, Martins, Drinkstore, Stonewellcider.com
A new cider from Stonewell aged for 6 months in Whiskey Barrels borrowed from a certain whiskey distillery in East Cork. The aged cider is then blended with a bitter-sweet apple ferment to create this intriguing tannic, textured and complex cider. The price is high because this attracts €3.20 duty (plus 23% VAT) — Revenue idiotically thinks it isn’t cider despite being made with 100% fresh apples.
This pours a bright red-gold colour with ripe apple and pear aromas, intensely fruity and honeyed on the palate but with a bitter-sweet tannic edge and background whiskey notes on the long luscious finish. Utterly delightful and moreish.
