Restaurant review: The Glasshouse is a truly special experience in a garden centre
Fish crumble: Paired with a simple salad of local green leaves, succulent fish rests languidly in elegant creamy velouté dancing with the bright anise of dill, while buttery, golden garlicky bread crumbs add textural crunch.
It’s probably only keen gardeners of long standing and considerable vintage who can recall a time when a ‘garden centre’ was a ‘nursery’, solely of interest to the green-fingered — but these days it can be hard to find one without at least a cafe and ever more elaborate offerings of interior and exterior lifestyle ranges that often have little at all to do with gardening.
Certain of these new models embrace the revised format with gusto, the finest example being Petersham Nurseries Cafe, in Britain, which has a restaurant sited in a lovely glasshouse, where Australian chef Skye Gyngell earned a Michelin star in 2011.
