Wine with Leslie: An Italian white wine under €15 that pairs perfectly with pasta
it is always rewarding exploring the lesser-known regions of Italy and thankfully more appear on our shelves every year.
Ah, Italy. No other wine-producing country is as complicated, as frustrating or rewarding. Italy is the largest producer of wine in the world and (probably) has the largest selection of grape varieties, and certainly the largest number of recognised wine regions.
Every time I look at a book on Italian wine I learn a new grape variety and often I learn of a new wine region. The average vineyard size is just over two hectares so there are thousands of producers and almost every scrap of land that is not a mountain top or a town grows vines.
Having said that, don't be intimidated it is always rewarding exploring the lesser-known regions of Italy and thankfully more appear on our shelves every year. With this in mind I have given over the column to some varieties you might be less familiar with this week.
One or two of the suggestions have appeared here before but not in the last three years. If you don’t know red grapes like Negroamaro and Nero D’Avola it is time you did as they offer fine quality at very fair prices. When we think of white wine from Italy we tend to think of Soave, Gavi and the light white wines of the North. Well, it is time you explored the South. Sicily has a whole clutch including Cattarato, Inzolia and Malvasia; and always watch for Fiano — there is even an excellent Fiano-Chenin Blanc blend from the Mandrarossa Co-Op.
Fiano is native to Campania and I rank it as one of Italy’s very best white grape varieties and you will find it in many other regions. Fiano is at its best around the town of Avellino in Campania where it is grown in 26 villages, most of which claim subtle differences. In general, Fiano shows lemon verbena, pear and citrus elements but can also be smoky and waxy or delicate and floral. The Fiano here is from one of the best producers in Campania — also watch for their Greco di Tufo, Falanghina and Taurasi (from the Aglianico grape).
For a fuller explanation on Fiano (or any of the grapes mentioned this week) I recommend Ian D’Agata’s book which delves deep into the history of Italy’s grape varieties and the subtle effects that terroir can have on those grapes. Even in regions I thought I knew well, such as Chianti and Barolo, the book is packed with insights and information.
Stockists: JJ O’Driscolls, World Wide Wines, Baggot St. Wines, Martins, Vintry, Wineonline.ie
I have featured the gorgeous plummy I Muri Primitvo here a few times but I also rate their more dried fruit flavoured Negroamaro. Negroamaro is the main grape in Southern Puglia (e.g. Salice Salentino) along with Primitivo. This has sultana and berry aromas, blackberry and blackcurrant flavours with a touch of prunes, savoury and balanced with good concentration and length perfect for matching a meaty pasta ragù.
Stockists: JJ O’Driscolls, World Wide Wines, 64 Wines, Wineonline.ie
Grillo is really only found in Sicily, and while best known as one of the primary grapes used for fortified Marsala, it is now just as commonly grown for easy drinking table wine. Temperature controlled ferment to preserve aromas and ripeness, this has lemon essence, pears and floral aromas — crisp and zingy on the palate with lemon peel and peach skins on the finish.
Stockists: Bubble Brothers English Market, JJ O’Driscolls Ballinlough, The Loop.
Nero D’Avola is the red grape you will most likely find in Sicily as it thrives here like nowhere else — and almost all are worth trying. This is from organic grapes and a carbon-neutral winery and shows bright cherry and red fruit aromas with touches of blackberry. Supple and juicy on the palate with pleasing weight and ripe fruit flavours with a touch of freshness on the finish.
Stockists; Blackrock Cellars, Dollard & CO, TheCorkscrew.ie
One of the three DOCG near the village of Avellino just inland from Naples (along with Greco di Tufo and Taurasi). I love Fiano and this is a pleasingly complex example with floral and tropical fruit aromas and a layered and textured palate with a gorgeous mouth-feel. White peach, waxy lemon and apple flavours and a clean mineral streak providing balance and depth.
Stockists: JJ O’Driscolls, World Wide Wines, Vintry, Baggot St. Wines, Station to Station, Mitchell & Son, Corkscrew.
A blend of the two best white grapes of the South with 60% Greco and 40% Fiano from Basilicata (between the heel of Puglia and the toe of Calabria). Floral and stone fruit aromas with a touch of tropical, almost luscious on the palate but balanced and fresh on the finish with a lemon-lime zest freshness and a lingering finish.
Stockists: Spar, Eurospar and Mace
Grand Noir is a new grape to me and seems to be very rare, having almost died out in France where it originates (it is related to Alicante Bouschet and similarly it produces red juice when pressed). This has smoky dark fruit aromas with spice and pepper mixed in with crunchy berry fruit flavours and balanced mature fruits on the finish.
Stockists: Independents, Mitchells, James Fox, Celtic Whiskey Shop, L. Mulligan, MasterofMalt.com
This is the first release in the Powerscourt Distillery ‘Estate Series’ (number 1 of 3) and is a limited edition Single Grain Amarone Finish. The name is a nod to the converted 300-year-old mill house which houses the distillery on the grounds of Powerscourt Estate in Enniskerry.
This is a marriage of single grain bourbon cask whiskies produced in 2010, 2011 and 2012 that were finished in Amarone casks for a further 18 months. Aromas of vanilla, honey and ripe peaches: smooth on the palate with honey, yellow peaches and spice on the mid-palate and a prickly kick of cedar and lemon on the finish.
