Wine with Leslie: A €13 wine perfect for seafood or light pasta dishes
Winemakers have realised they need to step up for sustainability
The theme of this week’s Weekend magazine is ‘Sustainability’ — a word you are almost guaranteed to find on the website of almost any winery you care to mention.
On the face of it making wine sustainably should be easy enough but the reality of the modern wine industry is that most wineries have a high carbon footprint. Even vineyards that are farmed organically will use a huge amount of water and electricity, damage biodiversity (grapes are a monoculture) and spray liberally with copper-sulphite to protect against mildew — a spray some argue is more damaging than the synthetic alternative.
Global warming has led to earlier harvests, unpredictable ripening, and a myriad of weather problems from drought to hail so winemakers have realised they need to step up: thankfully many have. I could have filled the column this week with stories of boutique producers who make tiny quantities of wine and impact the planet less but a more interesting story I think is what Miguel Torres (Sr and Jr) and their family have been doing over the past few decades.
The Torres family began growing grapes in Penedès in Catalonia in the 16th century but began bottling under their own name in 1870 so celebrated their 150th anniversary in late 2020. Torres is huge, with estates in Spain, Chile and California, but they take their environmental responsibilities seriously. The Torres family has reduced their carbon output by 30% since 2008 and are ahead of schedule to hit 50% reduction by 2030 — currently they source 25% of their energy from renewable sources (biomass, solar etc.). Along with the Jackson Family of California they created the International Wineries for Climate Action to lead by example. The Torres Foundation has a strong social as well as environmental focus and I’ve always been hugely impressed by the family whenever I’ve met them. Miguel A Torres, who ran the firm until 2012, is probably the most impressive winemaker I’ve ever met and hasn't let retirement stop him spreading his sustainability message.
Of course, if global warming accelerates many famous regions will not be able to grow grapes, and, with that in mind, Miguel A Torres began seeking out long-forgotten native varieties that might better cope with a warmer climate. The stunningly good Gran Muralles featured here uses some of these obscure varieties along with typical Garnacha and Cariñena. So happy birthday, Torres — and for the sake of the future of wine I hope more producers follow your example.
CLIMATE & SUSTAINABILITY HUB
Stockists: JJ O’Driscolls, Ardkeen Waterford, Fine Wines Limerick, Nolans Clontarf.
The Sangre de Toro range now covers several Spanish wine regions. Ribera del Duero was the family’s first foray outside Penedès followed by an estate in nearby Rueda for Verdejo. This has classic floral and sweet lemon aromas, fine-textured stony ripe fruits and a crisp dry bitter lemon finish. Perfect for seafood or light pasta dishes.
Stockists: JJ O’Driscolls, Ardkeen, Nolans Clontarf, Limerick Fine Wines.
Coronas is the oldest of Torres registered trademarks, dating from 1907. This is 100% Tempranillo while the Gran Coronas is a blend of Cabernet and Tempranillo and is also recommended. This pours a rich, dark red with aromas of spice-tinged blackberries, juicy primary red and black fruit flavours, ripe and lively.
Stockists: Deveneys, Molloys, Carpenters, Centra.
The Sangre de Toro name is now used by Torres for their entry-level range and there are around a dozen variations. The Sangre de Toro Rioja Joven was new to me and is typical of the range with good fruit and character for the price. Dark slightly smoky black fruits with a kick of clove and spice on the palate.
Stockists: Bradleys Cork, The Corkscrew Dublin thecorkscrew.ie
Named for Waltraud Maczassek the wife of Miguel A Torres who brought some German blood to the Torres family. Riesling is rare in Spain but is suited to the Upper Penedès — tasted blind you would not guess this was Spanish. Apple and mineral aromas, dry and lively on the palate with textured apple skin freshness and lovely purity and length.
Stockists: Bradleys, O’Briens wineonline.ie
From the Torres owned ‘Pago del Cielo’ winery (‘Estate in the Sky’) located at 895m above sea level, one of the highest vineyards in Spain where you really do feel you can ‘touch the sky’ as the wine’s blurb has it. Dark ripe mocha and black fruit Tempranillo aromas with silky ripe black fruits, good concentration, and not a little elegance. A solid introduction to perhaps my favourite Spanish wine region.
Stockists: wineonline.ie, dublinfinewines.ie
This is fascinating. Made solely from native Catalonian grapes (including obscure Garró & Querol) as part of Miguel Torres’ noble plan to save winemaking for Catalonia by reviving grapes that can thrive in our warming climate. Dark purple — almost black in colour with intense, concentrated berry and violet aromas, luscious blackberry fruits on the palate with a surprising elegance and lightness of touch. Simply gorgeous.
Stockists: O’Briens, Molloys, Celtic Whiskey Shop Dublin & Killarney celticwhiskeyshop.com, irishmalts.com
This is brand new to the Bushmills core range and the first in what is to be a series of ‘Original Cask Finish’ whiskies. Bushmills Single Malt is finished in 7-year-old Caribbean Rum Casks and blended with grain whiskey which adds its own spice character.
This pours a light gold with honey and sweet caramelised brown sugar aromas mixed with tropical fruits. On the palate, classic Bushmills flavours are evident but with an overlay of spice and sweetness and a touch of coconut on the finish. This is a fine addition to the Bushmills range and a bit of a bargain.
