Wine with Leslie: Six great Chilean wines to suit all budgets
It is such good news that Chilean producers are paying closer attention to their older vine stock and to the suppliers that have been with them for generations.
Chile has been a massive success in Ireland in the past few decades with 27% of all the wine we drink from that long narrow country in South America, no other country comes close. While much of the Chilean wine we drink is inexpensive varietal Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon this week I want to remind you of some blends and some lesser known grapes.
What sparked the idea for this column was an interesting online tasting with Aresti who have a long relationship with SuperValu. The family began growing grapes in 1951 in the Curicó Valley around 100 miles south of Santiago and are still fully involved in the everyday running. I was pleased to see they have introduced a Semillón to the range and as usual I was charmed by the Assemblage blends which offer wonderful value.
All the selections this week are from Chile and include a new iteration of Santa Rita, two wines from the Aresti family, a new tasty Pinot Noir from Aldi and two exceptional wines from the Carmen DO range. The DO wines were created by Carmen’s Chief Winemaker Emily Faulconer (aged just 32). Faulconer has found some small exceptional plots of older vines farmed by family producers whose grapes might otherwise have disappeared into a general blend and given them the recognition they deserve.
It is such good news that Chilean producers are paying closer attention to their older vine stock and to the suppliers that have been with them for generations. This is also happening in Argentina I should add (see Trapiche’s top Malbecs for example), and is to be welcomed and encouraged. I see no reason why the grapes from some of the older well situated South American vineyards shouldn’t be treated with the same reverence as those from the hills of Corton or Côte Rôtie. For example Chile once had 30,000 hectares of Semillón but now has just 900, most of it old vines and the new Carmen DO Semillón fully deserves to be aged like the best of the Hunter Valley or Pessac Léognan. Faulconer is experimenting with ageing some of the Semillón under Flor yeast as you would Fino Sherry, it sounds fascinating.
Cinsault was also once widely planted and a few Chilean producers now have versions made from older vines (e.g. De Martino, Santa Rita and Montes) - also watch for old vine Pais and Carignan and don't be afraid of spending a little more, the wines are likely worth it.
Aldi
One of the new Autumn wines in Aldi and one of the best value wines in their entire range. From the cooler coastal region of Casablanca which is nicely suited to growing Pinot Noir (and Sauvignon Blanc). Darker in colour than most Pinot Noir with rich aromas of ripe plums and black cherries, supple and full-flavoured on the palate with pleasing juicy fruits and a plum skin finish.
SuperValu
The Aresti range is on special offer in SuperValu for the next couple of weeks - this Cabernet - Syrah blend has big red and black fruit aromas and flavours mixed with touches of eucalyptus and dark chocolate. The Aresti Gran Reserva Syrah has big black fruits as you’d expect but also violet and floral notes that balance out the weight and density, while their Semillón is packed with crisp pear and apple fruits.
SuperValu, Tesco, Multiples.
This is on special offer in SuperValu this week and next for just €11.80, the normal retail price is €16 - Tesco is a couple of Euro more. From grapes grown in Maipo which is particularly suited to Bordeaux varieties, this has dark chocolate and ripe plum aromas, textured blackcurrant fruit flavours, a touch of mint, and an almost lush mouth-feel on top of some integrated tannins.
Normally selling for €25 this is reduced to €20 this month. A blend of 50% Cabernet, 20% Merlot, 12% Syrah, plus some Petite Sirah and Petit Verdot - the grapes were fermented separately after a long maceration and oak aged (50-60% low-toasted new barrels). Big juicy fruits on the nose, noticeable plum and blackberry flavours with cacao touches - darker fruits on the finish and good elegance and balance.
Greenacres Wexford www.greenacres.ie
From a Semillón vineyard planted in 1958 by the Quijada’s family this is foot-trod, fermented on wild yeasts in old oak barrels, aged on its lees for 12 months and released unfined. Pouring a light green-yellow colour with intense almond, creamy lemon and floral aromas, textured and layered on the palate with soft jackfruit and lemon curd flavours balanced by brisk acidity. Utterly beguiling.
Greenacres Wexford www.greenacres.ie
From a dry-farmed old plot in Chile’s oldest wine region which was first planted in the 1550’s. Wild yeast fermented and macerated on its skins for an extra 18 days before finishing in amphora. Darker in colour than many Cinsault this shows classic spicy red fruit aromas and a lithe and elegant fruit-driven palate that suited the Autumn day I drank it on perfectly.
Midleton Distillery Shop, Bow Lane Distillery Shop, The Loop Dublin Airport, Online via www.jamesonwhiskey.com
This is the new Limited Edition Cask Series from Jameson, finished in barrels that had originally contained Black Ball Metric Stout from Eight Degrees Brewing. I've always loved Crested (and its predecessor Crested 10) for its Sherry cask and Pot Still focus and pleasingly the Stout barrel influence has added interest rather than dulled any of the finer elements.
Straight out of the glass you can get dark chocolate and stout aromas, on the palate this is creamy, spicy and broad with some sweeter Sherry notes on the mid palate and a pleasingly fresh and crisp finish with lingering aromatic spices and green apple skin.
