Wine with Leslie Williams: It's time to talk about fortified wines
With unpredictable colder weather and Christmas almost upon us, it is time to talk about fortified wines. I wrote about the joys of port a while ago and bemoaned the fact that it is still not considered an every day wine but to be honest I understand why people associate it with Christmas. The rich figgy flavours of aged tawny make us think of Christmas Cake and how LBV and reserve port match with Milk Tray!
My selections below include a couple of ports but sherry is more on my mind this week as I got to taste some extraordinary rare sherries from the fine old house of Barbadillo from Sanlúcar.
We sometimes forget that there are three sherry towns — Jerez de la Frontera, El Puerto de Santa Maria and Sanlúcar de Barrameda. The coastal village of Sanlúcar is home to Manzanilla which always seems a little saltier than the fino from Jerez. Barbadillo were founded in the early 19th century and were the first to bottle a Manzanilla (see below) — prior to this, the wine was delivered to bars and restaurants in small barrels.
The VORS (very old rare sherry) range from Barbadillo are sourced from some of the company’s oldest criaderas (a single level in a solera) and are all around 30 years old and sold in numbered bottles. The long ageing causes evaporation and these rich, mahogany-hued wonders have amazing concentration. Such rarity doesn’t come cheap (€60) but on a quality and flavour scale they could happily justify triple that price — a drop on your tongue will linger for 20 minutes.
VORS Amontillado is packed with nutty aromas and has a little more oak character with soft dried fruits and hazelnuts but also touches of brine showing its origin as a Manzanilla. The VORS Oloroso is a little denser with a richer texture and supple concentrated dried figs. The Palo Cortado was my favourite of the three as it seemed a little more silky, but all three are wonders. They will match food like paté and tapas but perhaps work best on their own with perhaps a good book or some Baroque music.
If you don’t want to stretch for the VORS remember that there is hardly a dud dry sherry out there — good independents, M&S, Tesco and Aldi all have some excellent versions at ridiculously low prices.
BEST VALUE UNDER €15
JJ O’Driscolls, Jus de Vine, Hole in the Wall, Deveneys
The oldest Manzanilla brand (in bottle at least) this is unfiltered (en rama) and aged around nine years (most Fino and Manzanilla is sold at five years). Full straw colour, pungent aromas of seawater and ozone with a salty lemon complexity, smooth and polished, dried herbs and huge length. Extraordinary (in a good way).
Aldi
Fino and Manzanilla are usually aged under flor yeast for five to eight years and if not released are further aged in old oak to become Amontillado. This is nutty and complex on the nose with almonds, hazelnuts and dried fruits. Bone dry on the palate with a saline touch and lingering dried fruits. Perfect on its own or try serving it with paté or soup.
Aldi
Maynards was an old Port family and this brand does have good people behind it. This is an average of 10 years old and aged in smaller barrels so it oxidises a little and becomes tawny in colour. Rich figs and dried fruit aromas, nutty and rich but with good elegance and fresh acidity. A perfect match for Christmas cake or pudding and keeps in fridge for ages.
BEST VALUE OVER €15
JJ O’Driscolls, Jus de Vine, Hole in the Wall, Deveneys
One of a trio of rare 30 year aged dry sherries from Barbadillo (see above for notes on the Amontillado and Oloroso). This has complex nuts and dried fruit aromas with a touch of briny herbal notes, delicate and fruity with warmer fruits on the palate with dried figs and lingering lemon rind. Silky, complex and delicious!
Bradleys, O’Briens, McCambridges, Wine Centre Kilkenny, Country Choice, Greenacres, Mitchell & Son Glasthule and CHQ
This is how a fine quality dessert sherry should taste — not as sticky as a pure PX but with lovely elegance and complexity. Made from 80% dry Oloroso and 20% Pedro Ximinez this is dark mahogany in colour with aromas of almonds and dark raisins and touches of chocolate and coffee.
O’Dononvans Cork
Fonseca are part of the Taylors Port family along with Croft and Panascal is Fonseca’s showcase estate which releases a Single Quinta Vintage in non-Vintage declared years. This has rich dark blueberry and blackberry fruit aromas concentrated sweetness balanced by freshness and with muscular dense fruit character.
