Wine with Leslie Williams
A dip into South America this week following tastings with two producers. Garzon is a fairly new project (2008) on the east coast of Uraguay with flying winemaker Alberto Antonini in charge of winemaking while La Celia in the Uco Valley in Mendoza was founded 125 years ago.
La Celia has been imported by Spar and Londis for 17 years now and it is one of its best performers. The Uco Valley is 100km from Mendoza and La Celia has 400 hectares so it will have lots of scope to blend from different microclimates to balance its wines and ensure consistency in vintages.
Malbec is key to the range and besides the wines recommended below the La Celia Elite malbec 2015 (€18) had benefited from its extra year in bottle with savoury dark fruits to the fore. The La Celia Heritage 2014 (€27) meanwhile had good use of French oak, dense fruits with balsamic touches and good elegance.
Bodega Garzon is in eastern Uruguay popular with holidaymakers (the Ibiza of Uruguay) at the same latitude as the Uco Valley as well as Maipo in Chile, Stellenbosch in South Africa and the Barossa in Australia.
Garzon has 240ha under vine divided into 1,500 small plots and it was the first to plant in its region as most vineyards are further south and to the west. Soils are granite-based and there is good Atlantic influence, not unlike in Rias Baixas so it made sense to plant albariño (see below).
Garzon was founded 10 years ago and winemaking is overseen by Italian wine consultant Alberto Antonini who favours natural fruit flavours and likes to ferment in concrete and age in large foudres rather than new oak.
While Argentina has become associated with malbec, Uruguay is known for tannat, a grape only found in Madiran and in southwest France. Tannat wines can be tannic and difficult in their youth but Garzon’s cooler climate and granite soils allow a more mineral fresher dimension to the wines while in other parts of Uruguay the heavy clay soils sometimes produce a denser more rustic style. Cabernet Franc is its other star and there are 13 other grapes in production.
Balasto is its top wine and named for the basalt granite. A blend of tannat with cabernet franc, petit verdot and marselan — juicy and flavoured.
BEST VALUE UNDER €15
Spar, Eurospar, Mace and Londis
As you may have noticed I rarely mention Pinot Grigio but I’m coming round to some New World versions. The Garzon one is worth a try as is this fragrant fruity version which also has good acidity and balance. Perfect for a light supper.
Spar, Eurospar, Mace and Londis
Cabernet Franc is more and more common from the New World and often has the benefit of being riper than Loire versions, some of which can be rather too leafy. This has blackberry and spice aromas with a touch of graphite, confit red fruits and a supple juicy freshness. Try with pizza.
Spar, Eurospar, Mace and Londis
All the La Celia Malbecs are worth a try but this was my favourite in the under €15 category. Eighteen-day maceration and aged mainly in second-use French oak and made with 80% mature grapes (plus 20% early pick). Violets and black fruits, fleshy, supple and packed with flavour. One of the very best Malbecs at this price.
BEST VALUE OVER €15
World Wide Wines, O’Donovans, JJ O’Driscolls, 1601, Mortons, D6 Wines, Gibneys, Redmonds, Drink Store.
Given the granite soils and strong Atlantic influence in their vineyards, albarino makes perfect sense for Garzon. It has aromas of apricot and lemon with a hint of ozone, textured and fruity with good energy and freshness and a salty tang on the finish. Perfect for shellfish or spicy Thai.
World Wide Wines, O’Donovans, JJ O’Driscolls, 1601, Mortons, D6 Wines, Gibneys, Redmonds, Drink Store, Vintry.
A blend of 80% cabernet franc and 20% tannat this is given a short maceration and the tannat is there to provide a bit of oomph and structure. Distinct cabernet aromas with blackcurrant leaf and red fruits, bright juicy red fruits on the palate with darker fruits kicking in on the finish.
World Wide Wines, O’Donovans, JJ O’Driscolls, 1601, Mortons, D6 Wines, Gibneys, Redmonds, Drink Store, Vintry.
This has a short maceration (to reduce tannins) and is concrete fermented to bring out the bright fruits and further softened by some barrel ageing. Pouring a rich purple with soft black fruit aromas and blackberry and blackcurrant flavours on the mid-palate. Perfect steak or stew wine.
- Contact Leslie Williams at wine@examiner.ie
