Wine with Leslie Williams: Wines of Slovenia, Greece and Croatia
This week I’m focusing on three EU member states that have been producing wine for millennia but whose wines are relatively rare in Ireland: Slovenia, Greece and Croatia.
Irish people seem to have a real love affair with Croatia and I’m frequently asked where to find Croatian wines here.
Sadly few make it out of the country. Croatia is a long narrow country on the Adriatic with two distinct regions split by the Dinaric Alps which follow the coast.
Hence, there are inland wines from a continental climate and coastal wines. Liberty Wines recently began importing the much-praised wines of Ivica Matosevicwho is based in Istria, the peninsula at the north-western corner below Slovenia and just across the Adriatic from Venice.
From Slovenia, Liberty also brings in the wines of Gasper which is just north of Istria. Both grow malvazija or malvasia istriana as it is known (to distinguish it from around 18 other malvasia grapes).
Slovenia and Croatia have lots of international grapes but it is the regional grapes which provide the most excitement I feel. Now that we know that the obscure Croatian grape tribidrag (or crljenak kastelanski) is identical to zinfandel/primitivo it is being furiously planted throughout Croatia wherever it will grow.
In Slovenia, meanwhile watch for furmint, blaufrankisch and even previously maligned grapes such as grasevina and laski rizling (no relation to riesling).
Westport, Co Mayo-based wine importers Liam and Sinéad Cabot are surely the only Irish winemakers in Slovenia and are based in Stajerska in Podravje, an inland more continental climate. I recommend their blaufrankisch below.
Croatia joined the EU in 2013 and Slovenia in 2004 but Greece has been a member since 1981 so it is surprising their wines are not more available here.
Oddbins had a good selection back in the day but O’Briens is your best bet these days. Mitchells, The Corkscrew, Cabot and Co, and On The Grape Vine are also worth a visit.
Assyrtiko is the white grape from Greece that you absolutely need to seek out but also watch for xynomavro, agiorgitiko and mavrodaphni for exotic chocolate-scented dessert wines.
BEST VALUE UNDER €15
Stockist: O’Briens www.wine.ie
Assyrtiko originates on the gorgeous island of Santorini (most likely) and is perfectly suited to Greece thanks to its ability to retain acidity even in the hottest climates.
I’ve praised Gaia’s reds here before but this white from the hilly Koutsi region of Nemea is new to me — citrus and honeysuckle aromas, fresh on the palate but with tropical touches shining through.
Stockist: Lidl
Part of Lidl’s Greek Season from April 16. Many Greek islands make dessert muscat wines but samos is by far the best known.
I loved this and it is an absolute steal at this price — candied tangerine aromas, almost like a light Grand Marnier — honeyed sweet orange flavours mixed with yellow peaches on the palate, lingering honey and peach on the finish.
Stockist: Aldi
Aldi has a selection of new (and returning favourites) in for Easter including a pungent ripe South African Grower’s Club sauvignon blanc and a mint and blackcurrant Finca la Pampa Argentinian cabernet. In keeping with this week’s theme, this pleasing Nero d’Avola riserva is packed with soft red and black fruits and lingering touches of herbs and violets.
BEST VALUE OVER €15
Stockists: O’Briens, Fallon & Byrne, 64 Wine, Blackrock Cellar, Searsons
The Malt House, Wineonline.ie
Gasper is located just over the border from Collio in Friuli-Venezia in Italy, the region is known as Brda in Slovenia.
With Alpine and Adriatic influence whites do well here and this Malvazija has floral and honeyed aromas, a textured fruity palate and also lots of zingy crisp acidity for balance.
Stockists: The Malt House, Blackrock Cellar, Wineonline.ie
Thought by some to be Croatia’s best producer, Matosevic’s vineyards are based in Istria at 300m above sea level.
Their standard Malvzija is distinctly floral and perfumed, soft and fruity on the palate but balanced with criap flinty bitter herbal touches.
The Acacia wood aged version (€36) brings even more acacia flower and honey aromas.
Stockists: Cabot and Co, Westport; No.1 Pery Square Limerick; Grapevine, Dalkey; Poppy Seed, Clarinbridge; McCambridges, Galway
Importers Liam and Sinéad Cabot began their Slovenian winemaking adventure in 2007 with just 1.5ha and do everything themselves.
This Blaufrankisch is packed with bright raspberry and dark cherry fruits.
