Restaurant Review: Dockland, City Quarter, Lapp’s Quay, Cork
Nearly two decades ago, internationally renowned urban strategist Joe Berridge told a Cork audience in Millennium Hall that any other city in the world would give its eye teeth for access to such prime water frontage, in this, a place often referred to with parochial pride as the ‘Venice of the North’, yet we simply turned our backs on it, writes Joe McNamee.
Berridge’s sentiments appeared to herald a sea change in municipal thinking with two boardwalks added to sites along the River Lee’s South channel in the next few years. One, on South Mall/Grand Parade, has been an unqualified success, especially apparent when multitudes congregate for hardcore ‘balming out’ on a sunny day. The other has yet to take off.
Further up the channel, on Lapp’s Quay, it was part of a Celtic Tiger development, City Quarter, that included a modernist structure housing hotel and offices, with the ground floor spaces to be given over to hospitality ventures, creating a whole new social hub in the city. That was the aspiration, the reality was rather different: for whatever reason, Lapp’s Quay has, to date, remained curiously underused. New restaurant Dockland may be about to change all that.
Dockland used to be Club Brasserie, a swish operation that found itself lumbered with the unwanted tag of ‘special occasion’ restaurant in an area local punters didn’t seem to find very special at all. Restaurateurs Beth Haughton and Harold Lynch had been keen to press re-set for some time but, the entire development winding up with liquidators during the recession, had to wait until last October for the go-ahead to launch their long-planned alternative: deli/café by day, casual dining restaurant by night.
Design is a triumph of ingenuity and invention over major investment and all the better for it, cold glass cube becoming warm and welcoming space, beginning with cosy parquet flooring throughout. On a Saturday night, the buzz appears to shimmer up into the clusters of cheerful white paper globe lampshades bobbling overhead like hot air balloons.
Receiving sound counsel on portion sizes, My Heart’s Delight and I opt for three smaller starters. Calamari are fast becoming a staple on Irish menus but these are a step up from much of the competition: instead of the usual ‘rings’, they arrive in an enameled receptacle as pleasingly wonky ‘swizzle sticks’ sporting a deliciously crisp almond (and possibly paprika) batter,gorgeously moreish with Chipotle Mayo. Ballyhoura Mushrooms, supplemented with Portobellos, are sautéed with cream, tarragon and parmesan, served on crostini. Bursting with umami flavours, it is a superb rendition of a great comfort dish. Tender StemBroccoli are chargrilled, adding lovely smoky notes to the raw, fresh crunch and, with Caesar Salad, Toasted Hazelnut,Parmesan Crumble, is yet another well-executed dish.
There are ‘safe’ options on the menu for conservative diners but we fancy a dive into the ‘deeper’ end, with its mélange of Levantine, Middle Eastern and Asian influences. MHD has Fresh Chilli Falafels and Peppers in pitta — with crispy fries on the side, for good measure. Flavouring isn’t nailed with quite the same surefooted elan of the earlier starters and seemingly pan-fried patties lack the crisp bite of the more traditional deep-fried balls.
I have a Grilled Sumac Lamb ‘Steak’ and, again, ambition exceeds execution, this rump cut needing rather more TLC to deliver a steak-like experience; sides of Mixed Pepper Salsa and Chargrilled Vegetable Couscous would have worked much better with a spicy, slow-braised version of the same cut.
MHD loses herself in a delightful Meringue roulade (with Lime Vanilla Cream, Poached Plums, Toasted Almonds), while I’m persuaded to sample a fine Irish coffee but our bill proves sweeter still: you’ll be a long time searching the island for comparable value (we also had two cocktails, a bottle of wine and a coffee).
It is a most enjoyable night and even occasional misfires must be applauded for effort from a kitchen with its heart very much in the right place, genuinely trying to create original,flavoursome food from good local produce.
The next morning, I find myself returning by chance for a lazy,lingering Sunday brunch with Sons 1 and 2, the venue taking on a whole new level of pleasure again, as sun streams through the glass frontage. Dockland, very much worth a return visit, may well have at last unlocked the potential of this particular quay.
Dockland, City Quarter, Lapp’s Quay, Cork. Tel: 021-4273987; www.dockland.ie
