Restaurant review: Chapters Restaurant at Schull Harbour Hotel

Written by John and Sally McKenna, it commenced a series of now internationally renowned Irish food guides that, in retrospect, serve as culinary — even sociological — histories, documenting the evolution of the Irish food world over several decades.
There is a chapter in the first, entitled ‘Schull – The Food Town’, praising the West Cork seaside village as a beacon of epicurean enlightenment (growers, producers, restaurants, cafes etc) long before the modern Irish food revolution ever gripped popular imagination.