Restaurant Review: Huguenot French Bistro & Wine Bar, Cork

I’M NOT sure how many points opening — or in this case rejuvenating — a restaurant registers in the National Optimism Rebuilding Programme.

Restaurant Review: Huguenot French Bistro & Wine Bar, Cork

(or Program if it was dreamt up by a highly-you-know-what consultant) but it must be at least on a par with bringing a decent wedge on a punting trip to Cheltenham or paying into an Irish defined benefit pension scheme. No matter how you dress up the ambition, the risk/reward ratio is pretty tight.

There are very few businesses as dependent on fickle fancy and even in the best of times a restaurant needs more than a build-it-and-they-will-come determination to survive much less thrive. But, hallelujah, that kind of courage does not seem to be in short supply as there has been an outbreak of enthusiasm in the sector. In the last while a few new names have appeared — the very enjoyable Pier 26 in Ballycotton and the impressive Square Table in Blarney are just two — and the revamped Huguenot under a new management is another.

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