Born to be wild
She's written several bestselling cookbooks and writes on food for several newspapers and magazines.
Recently, she teamed up with Johnny Scott to write the Game Cookbook. Johnny is a keen shot and excellent horseman. As a farmer, naturalist and historian, he has written for many newspapers and magazines. He studied farming on three continents, was a jackaroo, miner, lumberjack, Lloyds aviation broker, and brakeman in the British bobsleigh team, before returning to farm hefted black-face sheep in southern Scotland.
Brought up in a long tradition of rural stewardship, Johnny acquired his love and knowledge of the countryside from his father and the gamekeepers, hunt servants, stalkers and the ghillies he knew as a child. He is determined this heritage should be preserved for the next generation - hence this terrific book.
When I first came to Cork, one of the delights of winter on regular trips to the English Market in Cork was Sullivan's stall. It would be bedecked with a variety of game hanging in the feather: pheasant, mallard, teal, widgeon, woodcock ... as well as rabbit.
In 1995 the Food Safety Authority stipulated that wild game could only be sold if it was processed in an EU-approved plant. There are only five in Ireland - two in Kerry, one in Mayo, one in Waterford, and one in Wicklow. It doesn't take much to realise that it would be totally impractical, not to mention uneconomical, for game hunters and even larger shoots to transport game over long distances. The net result was to virtually eliminate part of our traditional food culture. A spokesman from the FSAI confirmed they are in discussion with wild game suppliers about revised rules.
If game is cooked within 12 hours of being shot, it will be tender but have a wild, undistinguished flavour. But, if it is allowed to hang for a few days in a cool, airy place, enzyme action in the flesh will tenderise the meat and give it the characteristic gamey flavour.
Birds are best left to hang in the feather, undrawn for between one and seven days. The time varies according to the type of bird and the weather conditions. Feathers keep the bird moist during hanging.
Suggested hanging times: mallard and teal 2-3 days; pheasant 5-7 days; woodcock 5-7 days; snipe 4-5 days; grouse 3-4 days; partridge 3-4 days; hare 7-14 days; pigeon 1-2 days; wild goose 2-3 weeks; rabbit 2-3 days; venison 2-3 weeks (gutted and bled first).
Where to hang: Game should hang in a cool, dry, well ventilated larder or cold room, free of flies, etc. A cool garage may be the best option. If the weather is warm, it is essential to hang in a refrigerated cold room, ideally at a temperature of 0-5C/32-41F.
Feathered game should be hung by the neck (not in pairs). Furred game -eg rabbits, hare and venison - by the hind legs. After hanging, the game should be plucked or skinned and gutted and then marinated if necessary. Look out for shot!
Wild game is nutritious, and low in fat and cholesterol. It is so easy to overcook so be vigilant, otherwise even the most delicious bird will be dry and dull.
Regulations For game: Contact Paul Fletcher, Premier Game, Skeheenarinky, Burncourt, Cahir, Co Tipperary. Tel 052-67501 or 086-8384700 or email premiergameltd@eircom.net
The Game Cookbook by Clarissa Dickson Wright and Johnny Scott is published by Kyle Cathie.
