Wine with Leslie: Three wines from Romania — one of Europe’s oldest and best value producers
Once part of the Roman Empire, then the Ottoman, and then the Hapsburg Empire, it is worth a visit. Romanian is a Romance language but does have some Slavic loanwords.
I consider myself a proud European, but I have been rather remiss in writing about the wines of some of the EU’s eastern members, especially Romania, one of Europe’s oldest and best value wine producers.
In January this year Cramela Recas (‘Recas Winery’) invited me over. It was a fascinating trip, not least because the vineyards had a heavy fall of snow and looked picture perfect.
The Recas region is just south of Timișoara in western Romania where the revolution began in December 1989, a beautiful city famed for its diversity and religious tolerance.
Once part of the Roman Empire, then the Ottoman and then the Habsburg Empire, it is worth a visit. Romanian is a Romance language but does have some Slavic loanwords.
There are more that 120.000 Romanians living in Ireland (I know many in the hospitality trade), and Romania and Ireland have a century-long trade relationship, their embassy here opened in 1995.
Romania has made wine for over 6,000 years and still cultivates lots of indigenous grapes (e.g. fetească neagră, fetească regală) as well as imported noble ones.
Recas was founded by Englishman Philip Cox and his Romanian wife Elvira, they now make several million bottles of wine a year and export to dozens of countries.
I feature three of their wines below but also watch for the Wildflower range in O’Briens and Umbrele Merlot and Sauvignon in independents (Ardkeen, 1601; Martins).
Recas brands are the most prominent Romanian wines in Ireland but WinesDirect.ie also stock La Sapata organic wines from Podgoria Sarica Niculitel in E. Romania, I like their taut Aligoté and strawberry-scented pet-nat rosé.
You will also find Romanian wine in the Polenez and Moldova shops, just be aware that some are on the sweeter side.
Finally, watch for Carpathian Single Malt Whiskey available in Blackrock Cellars and other independents.
From vineyards on the Black Sea, this won Gold at the Irish Wine Show last year as best red under €12. Vibrant red and darker fruits, juicy and ripe beyond its price point, wild berry fruits and notable spice touches. Also watch for tangy dry Paparuda Pinot Noir and floral chardonnay fetească-regală
O’Donovans; Next Door; Carry Out; Wineonline.ie
Pinot Noir is not an easy grape to get right, certainly not at entry level, but this is one of the best Pinots I’ve found under €20. Dried red fruit aromas with touches of cherry and strawberry, taut and textured palate with good concentration, a touch of gamey freshness and a cherry-skin tang on the finish. Far more exciting than new world examples at a similar price.
- No. 21 Off-Licences; 64 Wines; Clontarf Wine; Higgins; Independents
Fetească neagră is found in Romania and Moldova, sometimes compared to Blaufränkisch as both have black cherry and plum fruits and rather regal complexity. Part barrique fermented so expect some cedary spice plus dark chocolate aromas mixed with black fruits. Ripe and supple on the palate with weight and sweet plum fruits, spice on the mid-palate, fine concentration and not a little elegance.
- No. 21 Munster; JJ O’Driscolls; 1601; Firecastle; Independents
Proper genuine cider like Sting is made with 100% fresh apple juice and nothing else. The big brands (you know the ones) use concentrate, always check the label.
This is from Armagh eaters (Falstaff, Discovery etc.), lively and refreshing with toffee apple aromas, a concentrated off-dry palate, textured green apple flavours and sweet lemon on the finish. Beautifully crisp on its own or mix with gin!
- O’Briens; Bradleys; Independents
