Wine with Leslie: wine courses; cocktail books and cognac at €3,000 a bottle
Just a few days left but still time to organise some drinks-related Christmas presents
Just a few days left but still time to organise some drinks-related Christmas presents.
First up, education: wine writer and educator Maureen O’Hara is running one-day wine courses at a cost of €150 — vouchers can be bought from her web site: premierwinetraining.com/
In Cork, O’Donovans Off-Licence Wine School will be up and running again in 2021, contact: lorna@odonovansofflicence.com, 021-4296060.
If you prefer to educate yourself, I recommend the annual which I buy every year. Oz Clarke’s books never fail. And watch for the regional wine books from the Infinite Ideas, imprint infideas.com
Raymond Blake’s excellent is essential reading as is Anne Krebiehl’s which came out last month (I’ll review fully soon). There are well-written books on everywhere from Georgia to Roussillon to Greece and the Douro
Decent cocktail books are rare — most are sponsored by alcohol companies and poorly written. Thankfully Phaidon stepped up this year and published by Adrienne Stillman. Beautifully produced and written with style and a sense of place and history with 610 recipes from six continents. Recipes are short (usually 3-4 ingredients); there is an excellent index and around 80 containing my new favourite ingredient Vermouth (see Vermut Robles below). I especially recommend the Adonis on page 322 — equal parts Fino and Vermouth and a dash of Orange Bitters. Fans of (and Cillian Murphy) might like the which has some excellent recipes such as the ‘Vendetta’ — and all the main characters get their own dedicated cocktail.
The number of new gins keeps growing and the best gin idea this year was the Blackwater Distillery Tasters Club which delivers a pair of 200ml bottles every two months, blackwaterdistillery.ie
If you have saved a fortune during 2020 lockdowns and you want to blow it all on a loved one you could opt for a whole cask of Boann Whiskey — prices start from €3200, boanndistillery.ie
JJ Corry Whiskey bonders are due to release two ultra rare and outstandingly good 21-Year single cask offerings at €1,500 per bottle spirits@bordeauxindex.com
And finally, if you had a really good year then the world’s most expensive Cognac — Rome de Bellegarde XO — is now available in Ireland via stuffuneed.ie at €3,000 per bottle.
It is not for everyone but I can say it is arguably the smoothest, most luxurious, cognac I have ever tasted.
Stockist: O’Donovans Off-Licences
This brand is new to me and is on special offer in O’Donovans this month. Pinot Noir is a fine match for both goose and turkey, especially bronze turkey with its richer flavours. The five years' ageing has mellowed this out so the red fruit aromas are a little more like confit fruits, the earthy tones mixed in add depth and complexity and this is a fine drink for the price.
Stockist: O’Donovans Off-Licences
I know we are not allowed parties this Christmas but if we were I would suggest this good value white from Northern Spain. Verdejo is Spain’s best selling white grape and is traditionally from Rueda — this is from nearby so costs a little less. Aromas of cream and citrus, soft and fruity on the palate with a bitter lemon tang and good acidity.
Stockist: Aldi
Dessert wines make even more sense at Christmas for matching the mince pies or a slice of Christmas cake. Most inexpensive Sauternes are usually double this price, so this is a steal. Aromas of honey and sweet lemon, rich and smooth on the palate with lemon curd, key-lime pie and just enough acidity to leave the palate cleansed. Serve fully chilled and try with cheese, desserts or Christmas treats.
Stockists: 1601, Bradleys, 64 Wines, Searsons, Green Man, Deveneys, Fallon & Byrne, Drinks Store, SIYPS.com
I love good quality Côtes du Rhône with Christmas dinner, there is something about silky Grenache and the wild herb notes from the Provençal like landscape that matches perfectly. This is just released and made by three Irishmen — aromas of black olives, black fruits and background spice, chewy and vibrant with ripe tannins and soft dense fruits.
Stockists: Cinnamon Cottage, Dwans, Ely Wine Store, Barnhill Stores,wineonline.ie
Willunga is based in McLaren Vale, a half-hour drive south of Adelaide, and a region with lots of diverse microclimates. Grapes for this wine are from 80-year-old vines grown at 180m and with long lees ageing but no oak. Floral red and dark berry fruits on the nose with cherry and pomegranate — silky and smooth with a touch of spice on the finish.
Stockists: Urru Bandon, Mannings Ballylickey, Toonsbridge Macroom and Dublin, Little Greengrocer Kilkenny, marypawlewines.com
This vermouth is brand new to Mary Pawle’s portfolio — there are two in the range and both are recommended. This version was created in collaboration with chef Paco Morales to reflect Andalusian cuisine in the Middle ages. Vanilla, clove and Christmas cake aromas, textured and complex with a bittersweet spice and red fruits on the palate. Try on ice or in cocktails.
