Expanding existing farms in a new way by brewing beer
Pictured is Patrick McDonald of 12 Acres Brewing, which uses malting barley from the family farm in Killeshin, Co Laois, with the harvest alongside baby Polly, Ian, Paddy, Barry, and Sean McDonald File Picture.
Some of the country’s innovative farmers are brewing up an alternative enterprise based on an age-old heritage of beer brewing.
Craft breweries have been established by a growing number of farmers in various parts of the country.
They are part of an industry that was relatively stagnant with a mere 12 breweries countrywide in 2012. It has now increased to over 70, producing a wide range of beers.
Even an Irish Beer Map has been produced to highlight the abundance of quality in the beers being produced by Irish craft breweries tucked away in each county.
The map encourages people to seek local brews and learn more about the provenance of their favourite beer.
It also aims to highlight the range and expertise of the craft brewing scene that has developed in Ireland over the last 15 years and tells the personal stories involved.
The location of each brewery is shown on the map, a collaborative effort of Irish breweries, supported by the Independent Craft Brewers of Ireland).
Western Herd Brewing Company Limited in Kilmaley Co Clare was established in 2015 by siblings Maeve Sheridan and Michael Eustace. It is situated on a farm which has been in the family for eight generations.
With a keen interest in sustainability, they view themselves as keepers of the land. All their spent grain is used as animal feed with local farmers.
Full operational procedures are continuously reviewed to ensure that reductions in carbon footprints can be achieved.
These actions range from planting wildflowers and preserving hedgerows to reviewing energy consumption.
The team believes that sustainability is not just an environmental issue but a way of life on the farm to preserve the culture and history of the location.
Michael Eustace was running a busy pub in Dublin, while Maeve Sheridan had just moved back from living in Luxembourg where the range of beers was extensive.
Brehon Brewhouse in Iniskeen, Co Monaghan, was established in 2014 by Seamus McMahon, who wanted to expand his existing dairy farm in a new and exciting way.
As there were no local breweries in the area, he saw an opportunity to start a new legacy and to produce a local beer.
The Brewhouse is planning several events with the aim of providing some local entertainment and safe social gatherings to help the community reconnect following pandemic-related restrictions.
Ballykilcavan Brewery in Stradbally Co Laois was set up in 2018 by David Walsh-Kemmis. He was inspired to do so while figuring out how to futureproof his family farm which had been in the Walsh-Kemmis stead for thirteen generations, dating back to 1639.
As the tillage farm grew malting barley and David had a keen interest in homebrewing, it made business sense to try brewing on a professional scale with extensive sustainability measures on-site.
Another Laois company, 12 Acres Brewing from Killeshin, was established in 2014 by brothers Patrick, Rory, Ian and Barry McDonald.
The family farm produced malting barley for the brewing and distilling industries and had an excellent spring water supply on-site.
As malt and water make up 97% of the raw materials for beer it made sense for the farm to start producing its own brews. The spent grain, yeast and hops are feed for the farm animals resulting in a sustainable brewing process.
They are just a few of the family farmers who have gone into craft brewing, an industry driven by innovation and a desire to create new flavours.
Steven Spillane, Alcohol Sector, Bord Bia, explained in a report last November that it is a sector where you innovate or become irrelevant.
It uses the finest ingredients. Some brewers even grow their own. They then carry out the entire brew process by hand and taste frequently to ensure that only the highest quality of product is provided to their customers.
“We all know how hard Covid-19 has been and this has been even harder on the brewing community," he said.
“On average, in the pre-Covid period, some 80% of craft breweries revenue was from the on-trade, which was shut down overnight.
“It took incredible determination to bounce back from this and survive. Any brewery that has made it this far is incredibly resilient and we believe that they are here to stay."
Mr Spillane said the Irish craft beer industry has been achieving outstanding growth for the last number of years. And it is even more impressive knowing that the broader category has been relatively stagnant.
Sales of Irish craft beer grew by about 18% in 2019, while beer sales rose by only 2%. The craft beer market share increased from 2.6% in 2017 to 3.4% in 2019.
All in all, the Irish craft beer industry is growing and will continue to grow, but it has had its fair share of difficulties over the last 10 years.
The challenges have come with a silver lining, however, in that they have forced brewers to become one of the most innovative industries in Ireland and are likely to flourish over the next 10 years, he said.
