John Whelan: Vegan meat alternatives already out of vogue before latest EU push
The once global leader in the alternative-meat business, Beyond Meat, is cutting jobs in the US and the EU, and has closed its once lucrative business in the vast China market. Picture: Gabby Jones/Bloomberg
A coalition of EU states, including food heavyweights like France, Spain, Italy, and Ireland last month renewed their push to have the European Commission ban the use of traditional meat names for plant-based substitute products.
The push came at the European Parliament’s agriculture committee meeting which voted to prohibit the use of terms like ‘burgers’ and ‘sausages’ on vegan alternatives, paving the way for an EU-wide ban.
The names of dairy products such as ‘milk’ or ‘cheese’ have been protected by EU law since 1987, but surprisingly the same does not apply to meat products.
However, the agri-food industry may be fighting a war they have already won.
The once global leader in the alternative-meat business, Beyond Meat, is cutting jobs in the US and the EU, and has closed its once lucrative business in the vast China market.
Veganic, a vegan supermarket opened to great fanfare in St Stephens Green shopping centre in July 2019, offering only plant based and organic products, including plant-based steaks, bacon, fish, failed to get customer support and closed in May 2022.
The vegan restaurant ‘Unity Diner’, which gained popularity in London, closed its doors in February after six years of operation.
Despite making a name for itself with unique menus such as ‘Vegan Lobster Mac and Cheese’ and ‘Prime Flank Steak’ made using 3D printing technology and plant-based protein.
One reason for the rapid decline of the vegan trend is the limitation in the taste of these alternative 'meats'.
Food analysts have pointed out that the taste of alternative meats made using plant-based ingredients has not reached the taste appeal of animal meat.
Additionally, controversies arose over the numerous chemical additives in alternative meats as producers try to mimic the taste of real meat, and criticism over high carbon emissions during production has further led consumers to turn away.
Also, the phenomenon of influencers and health enthusiasts emphasising protein intake on social media has also accelerated the decline of the vegan trend.
But whereas the vegan trend may be waning, the farming lobby has still to deal with the enemy within.
Major Irish food companies like Glanbia manufacture plant-based cheese using oats, under their Oat-Standing brand.
Glanbia states that research shows consumers want to see improvements in the taste and texture of plant-based food and that this product responds to these needs.
Additionally, various other brands available in Ireland, such as Flora and Koko, make non-dairy butter and spreads, which may expand again.
And there are many advocates for the change to plant-based foods, such as former president Mary Robinson, who has encouraged consumers to consider adding more plant-based foods to their diet.
At the One World Summit in Ottawa, Canada in 2016, she said: “Eat less meat, or no meat at all. Become vegetarian, or vegan.”
Last year, several countries in Europe revised their national dietary guidelines to recommend people eat more plants and fewer animals.
This, policymakers have noted, is crucial to safeguard both public and planetary health.
But that advice seems to be falling on deaf ears, if a 19,500-person survey of consumers in 18 European countries (including the UK) is anything to go by.
The EIT Food Consumer Observatory’s annual Food Trust Report finds that Europeans eat twice as much meat as the global average.
