Fashion takes the plunge with ‘90s grunge

OVERSIZED jumpers with leggings, baggy coats with belted waists, bright statement T-shirts and grunge are the trends to look out for next season, as London Fashion Week signalled a return to the early 1990s.

The six-day event, which wrapped up last night with a show-stealing collection by New Yorker Marc Jacobs, brought block colours and bold prints back on the fashion agenda.

Black leggings remain the accessory de jour. Stylists say the black tight obsession is part of the ’90s trend that was seen on the catwalk over the past week.

Another key trend for the autumn/winter 2007 season is spreading style messages on T-shirts. There were bright Ts like “What a corker Karen Walker” in New York Fashion Week earlier in the month and London followed suit.

Young designer label House of Holland showcased its creations earlier in the week with a pink T-shirt saying “I’ll show you who’s boss Kate Moss? across the front and a rubber tee stamped with “I’ve got more than a handful for Naomi Campbell?”.

T-shirts by Katherine Hamnett read “Save the Future?” — her contribution to the huge trend of ethical fashion, which has started in London but is expected to make its mark across the fashion world.

Despite this, controversial fur remained a feature at this week’s catwalk, in designs by Julien Macdonald.

Irish designer Fergal Swan also featured statement T-shirts in his latest collection for his Propaganda label. Propaganda, which sells in BT2s in Dublin, Primetime in Cork and Chaps in Limerick, was spotted by a number of British stores which will start stocking it in autumn.

The T-shirts for the autumn/winter 2007 collection feature George Bush images with the words “Just say Yo”, as well as alien prints with the words “The propaganda attack”. They are in bright clock colours and worn with grey cotton hoodies and baggy cord combats.

Metallics will continue to shine this year. Glitter, sequins and metallic fabrics sashayed down the runway, with top Indian designer Manish Arora leader of the shimmer pack.

While the season ahead looks bright, brash and blingy, there were some signs of sophistication, mostly from Irish designers Paul Costelloe and John Rocha, as well as the well-established British designers, Julien Macdonald and Paul Smith.

Costelloe returned to Paris in the ’60s for his collection which was strong on A-line skirts and high waists. Julien Macdonald showed white tasselled ‘20s style flapper dresses and prim, pleated knee-length skirts, while Paul Smith unveiled pretty chiffon party dresses with frilled hemlines.

After 50 catwalk shows, more than 300 pouting models and at least a million camera flashes, the fashion flock will leave London behind, and head to Paris, where they will do it all again next week, for the final of the four major fashion weeks.

Dublin Fashion Week, now in its third season, is scheduled for March and is hoping to gain more international recognition this year.