Naples – a city on the edge of euphoria

Even in this moment of history and ecstasy, the Neapolitans demonstrate a determination to fight for their opinions

Mon, 17 Apr, 2023 - 06:30

Ian Mallon, Naples

For a city of three million, supposedly marginalised, Neopolitans - Naples is doing just fine for itself.

Saturday’s scoreless draw at home to Verona was barely a stumble as another precious game week towards a first Scudetto post-Diego Maradona was notched off.

A second string started, a side boosted by the returns of Victor Osimhen and the welcome introduction of Khvicha Kvaratskhelia who finished the game inside a hysterical Stadio Diego Armando Maradona.

The pair’s arrival in the final quarter of the match raised an already feverish atmosphere where recent rivalries between both sets of Napoli ultras were set aside in a newly united club on the edge of euphoria.

Napoli was a team that continues to drag on the heartstrings and breaks your heart at the same time. Before this weekend supporters were preoccupied with the club’s administration and how best to protest against rising ticket prices and other non-footballing issues.

Against AC Milan two weeks before - the first of three meetings with its northern rivals - both sets of Napoli ultras fought battles in the stands after disputes about how best to protest broke out.

Yes, even in this moment of history and ecstasy, the Neapolitans demonstrate a determination that no matter what the situation, if things are not right in their diverse opinions, then it’s worth fighting over.

Order has been restored and against Verona the Maradona stadium heaved in unison at what lies ahead, — a third game against Milan in Tuesday’s Champions League tie, and a place in the semi-final of a competition it has never won.

Marco Donvito from Parma and Antonio Mastroleo from Taranto agreed that such divergences and opinions are what makes Napoli a unique club.

“We like being marginalised, separated from the norm, where no matter, the supporters will make their opinions known even if they don’t always agree,” explained Mastroleo, a bank manager.

“Like with Liverpool when they won the title, prices rise, ticket values increase and the club becomes highly sought after.

“It’s the same here, everyone wants to be part of Napoli but not at any price.”

The comparisons with Liverpool are inevitable, and like the Merseyside club, Naples is very comfortable in its rebellious skin.

“Napoli is a city and a team which is used to bad press, but as you can see, it’s a place on the rise,” adds Marco Donvitto.

“We like people to think we’re isolated and on our own, but in reality we’re very happy with that - it’s our little secret.”

Indeed, Naples is a hugely welcoming region as I and my two sons discover around the stadium hours before Saturday’s 6pm kickoff.

The sight of three pale-faced fans was something of a novelty where local supporters approached, welcomed and even thanked us for coming. Thank you for having us.

The atmosphere at Italian football is always incredible and a Napoli game is like nothing on earth, a volcanic eruption of emotion.

Napoli dominated the match, and but for one Verona breakaway should have won easily, even without two of the world’s best players.

The arrival of Osimhen and Kvaratskhelia raised the standard immediately, but despite an audacious strike off the bar by Osimhen the breakthrough never came.

Back in the Chiaia district later fans celebrated another giant leap towards Scudetto numero tre and a fireworks display highlighted a city surrounded by volcanoes on the brink of eruption.

Victory over Milan and a place in the Champions League semi-finals where a clash with another Italian giant, Inter, awaits could just push Napoli over the edge of euphoria.

In a place where Diego will never be let die, immortality awaits Spalletti’s modern heroes 33 years after its last great achievement.