England stars humbled by visit to Auschwitz

England’s pampered players luxuriated in a fairy-tale castle at the top of a German mountain during the World Cup of 2006 as WAGs sashayed below in the spa town of Baden Baden; but they still went home in despair.

In 2010 they were ushered away, with WAGs not welcome, to a remote but plush training camp in Rustenburg, South Africa, where even the bedrooms overlooked the football pitches; and they went home in disgrace. So has the English FA finally got it right in 2012? England’s experience in Poland and Ukraine this summer will be a world away from the isolation of previous tournaments judging from their first two days in the Polish stag-night capital of Krakow; where they have been greeted by huge crowds and no shortage of enthusiasm.

The decision to choose Krakow, not without controversy given England’s group games are all being played thousands of miles away in Ukraine, was taken long before Roy Hodgson replaced Fabio Capello — but it appears to be one the former West Brom, Fulham and Liverpool manager is completely at home with as he prepares his much-criticised team to face France in Group D on Monday.

“I was in South Africa in 2010 in my role with the BBC and I hope we’ve learned from the experience there,” he said. “We’ve certainly learned in terms of where we are staying. Last time it really was pretty isolated.

“I don’t like what I call ‘golden cages’ during a tournament. What I mean by that is a place with wonderful facilities — but the only people you see every day are the people you are playing with and the hotel staff. It’s important to remember we are part of a wider world.

“It could be famous last words but I’m happy with it here! The players are quite used to being followed around and having people trying to photograph them. I think better that than trying to hide them away from the world. It shouldn’t be a hindrance in your life to go to a tournament; it should be one of the highlights of your life. It shouldn’t be a chore.”

In stark contrast to Rustenburg, where players complained of boredom and secretly described their hotel a prison camp, Krakow presents many opportunities for escapism. England’s ‘Stary Hotel’ is within sight of the town’s main market square and players will be given permission to walk around the cobbled streets should they wish.

“You need that,” admitted midfielder James Milner, who was part of the squad in South Africa. “You need an afternoon where you take a stroll out. I was looking forward to just going out for a cup of coffee! It’s massively important to get that mix and make sure it’s not 24/7 football. It is going to be different being in the town this time but I think it’s a good place for us to go. It can’t all be football, football, football.”

It all seemed rather other-wordly in Baden Baden, too, as WAGs in high heels (and caked in more make-up than a pantomime dame) roamed in large groups seeking out the next bottle of champagne — followed by even larger groups of equally shameless paparazzi.

But this time England’s players — who famously turned down the opportunity to visit Robben Island in Cape Town in 2010 — were brought down to earth when they visited Auschwitz yesterday on a compulsory trip designed to put football into perspective.

Were it not for the fans eager to get a picture, the England players could have been any group of tourists.

They had the same reactions. Respectful silence turning to bewilderment and eventually utter incomprehension.

Wayne Rooney was among them, so too Joe Hart, Theo Walcott, Leighton Baines, Phil Jagielka, Andy Carroll and Jack Butland. They are extremely successful in their day jobs and enjoy riches beyond belief.

Yesterday, for four-and-a-half hours, that was irrelevant.

Walking into what was once a gas chamber, Carroll pointed skywards at the hole in the roof, through which the deadly Zyklon-B gas pellets were poured. Walcott acknowledged with a sad shake of the head, having already been told that of the vast numbers that arrived at the site, some after journeys wedged in cattle trucks that lasted for up to nine days, 80% were dead within two hours.

“It is unreal,” said Walcott. “I learned some of this stuff at school but I could never imagine anything on this scale.”

“It must have been like a slow torture,” said Phil Jagielka, the Everton defender of Polish descent.

Certainly it will be interesting to see if the FA’s new approach results in a more relaxed atmosphere around the squad over the next two weeks and a more integrated attitude to go with it.

That’s where the Republic of Ireland have always had the edge over their old rivals — off the pitch if not always on it – because nobody could ever accuse the Irish of a stuffy self-important attitude or an obsession with security.

Even in 2002, when the Roy Keane controversy was raging, manager Mick McCarthy once turned up to a press conference at the team base in Korea to find an Irish fan already sat in his seat and happily giving his version of events! That won’t be happening at the Stary Hotel this weekend; but at least England are trying to loosen up.

“I’m not going to quantify what would be success”, insisted Hodgson when asked whether his team could win the tournament. “But it’s important for us to enjoy the journey.”