Wonderful Waterford
Dunmore East, Waterford, with its beautiful thatched cottages, secluded coves and welcoming food spots.
There are two counties in Ireland that have it all, but don’t get the attention of heavy hitters such as Galway or Kerry, Garvan Cummins from The Greenwayman Bike Hire in Dungarvan, Co Waterford, tells me.
I know one of them is going to be his home turf, but when he also says Sligo, I’m not surprised. I agree with him. I’ve been visiting these coastal counties since a young age and instantly fell in love with both and return often.
With mountains, sea cliffs, clean sandy beaches, a decent sized city or town close by, rich countryside and a warm welcome, they both tick a long list of requirements for a memorable staycation. I am happy to wax lyrical about my summers on Mullaghmore beach or Clonea Strand with someone who feels as strongly about them as I do.
Cummins has been instrumental in putting Waterford squarely on the map in recent years, having been heavily involved in the opening of the Greenway in 2017. The 46km route from Waterford city to Dungarvan has grown in popularity with cyclists and walkers in the past nine years. Lots of cafés and restaurants have sprouted up along the path, with Coach house Coffee at Kilmacthomas offering a wide selection of lunch options, while the cakes at The Railway Cottage are homemade and a feast for the eyes as well as the belly.
But the views of powdery stretches of sandy beach below as you make your way from Durrow, past Clonea Strand and into Dungarvan, passing through the Ballyvoyle tunnel makes the long but manageable cycle worth it. On a recent trip to the sunny southeast, we hired bikes from Greenwayman and Cummins gave us an interesting history lesson on the area as we strapped on helmets and took to the bike path.
My kids have also been going to Waterford since they were babies and have a deep love for the Deise, their paternal grandmother is from Dungarvan, and every time we visit there is always something ‘more’ to discover in the county of Mores. We stayed in Comeragh pods at the foot of the Comeragh mountains, a perfect spot to base yourself.
The brainchild of Tracy and Padraig Quinlan, the couple has put six glamping pods and a spa area including outdoor hot tub and sauna overlooking the unspoiled mountains and the Tay river close by. It’s rustic but with everything needed to make a stay less arduous than actual camping – a win for a tired mum who really doesn’t want to have to sleep on a blow-up bed in a tent.
The kids took to paddling in the river in rolled up jeans and making smores over the gas lit coal fires as the sun went down. We threw the devices to one side and tried our hands at a couple of the board games that are available in the communal area before chilling out in our pod with a movie. A breakfast basket is provided by the owners in the morning.
Before leaving the Dungarvan area check out Cookhouse 360, with a vast menu that will suit both adults and kids, it’s unfussy, tasty food with excellent service in pleasant surrounds.
Along the coast to Dunmore East, a gorgeous town of thatched cottages, secluded coves and buzzy food spots and places to have a pint. East Pier was set up by Elaine Power in 2019, who previously worked with Rick Stein in his Padstow restaurant.
A selection of the freshest fish including oysters, hake, lobster and prawns, as well as white fish caught close by for your classic fish and chips make this menu a fish lover’s dream, or nightmare, the choice a hellish conundrum. We narrowed it to crab brioche, scampi and fries and the most delicious fish tacos on a bed of corn and coriander salsa. Served from a food truck with plenty of outdoor seating and some indoor, munch on your takeaway while quaffing a Rose or even a snipe of Moet. Chips and champagne, a classic combo.
Dunmore East Adventure centre is a must if travelling with kids, there is an inflatable aquapark (that they deflate and bring to shore each evening), kayaking, SUP as well as an excellent indoor adventure area including climbing wall, Ninja course, Laser challenge and archery which is perfect for grey, drizzly days.
One of their instructors, Andy took me on a tour of the coastline by kayak, while the kids were busy bouncing and sliding on the water. He told me a little of the history of the area, pointing out Hook lighthouse in neighbouring Wexford, and showing me Smugglers Cove, a charming swimming spot.
Back in Waterford city and a Viking virtual reality experience awaits that is as interesting for the adults as it is fun for the kids. Put on headsets and get transported to longships raiding monasteries and watch as Reginald, grandson of the legendary Ivar, returned to Waterford where he built a fort and became king in 917 AD. You also get to inhabit a recreated Viking hut, constructed just as it would have been, in the ruins of Baileys New Street’s ancient friary. Learn what it meant to be a Viking and how they cooked, kept warm, slept and passed the time over 1000 years ago.
Close by on Greyfriars Street in the heart of Waterford’s Viking Triangle, the Irish Museum of Time is housed within a restored Gothic-style church. A highlight of the trip and the real reason for visiting this time around is to see the recently opened Black Forest Cuckoo Clocks exhibition, which is believed to be among the finest collections in the world.
I’ve always been transfixed by the cuckoo clock, a great aunt had one when I was a child and I would impatiently wait for the clock to strike the hour and the little mechanical bird to appear, as if by magic.
This new gallery brings together hundreds of exceptional pieces, from miniature works to much larger pieces inspired by woodland scenes. Originating in southwest Germany, cuckoo clocks uniquely showcase a blend of craftsmanship, artistry and engineering. A standout feature is a rare century-old fairground organ that plays it’s tune as you sit listening in a mini theatre.
The museum also showcases the oldest Irish-made grandfather clocks, table clocks and watches, as well as featuring rare timepieces from across Europe and beyond, including Switzerland, England, Germany, France, Italy, Austria, the Netherlands, Russia and Japan.
Finish with lunch at GROW HQ, an award-winning café on the outskirts of town with an organic kitchen garden, farm shop, education centre and working farm. We enjoyed delicious salad and frittata as well as homemade ice cream, the perfect way to end a relaxed summer staycation.
