Islands of Ireland: Irons in the fire at Mannin Beg

The island of Mannin Beg had a long and illustrious history before Jeremy Irons' arrival

Kilcoe Castle now the home of actor Jeremy Irons is caught in late afternoon sunlight at Roaringwater Bay in West Cork. Picture: David Creedon

The island of Mannin Beg in West Cork has one of the shortest causeways in the country, but the principle of construction is the same — to provide a link to the mainland and thus obviate the need for a boat. 

However, the causeway dates from only 1978 and construction appears not to have been considered in the previous centuries. The island’s very visible castle, a vibrant peach, was built on the north of the island (not too far from the south). It has a couple of islets nearby for company: Illaunphadrig and Illaunbrone.

Nowadays, the island is the home of actor Jeremy Irons, who carried out extensive renovations on the castle for six years from 1998. Of course, it had a long and illustrious history before his arrival.

Dan MacCarthy: 'The Roaringwater Bay island castle was constructed by a branch of the MacCarthys, who were known as the Clan Dermod, in around 1450'

Kilcoe Castle on Mannin Beg between Skibbereen and Ballydehob was defended not just by its occupants, but by its geography. Castle sites were chosen primarily for defensive purposes. Whether on the top of a hill, a river, or a cliff, the primary aim was to defend the position.

Kilcoe derives from Cill Coiche (Church of St Coch). The nun, reputedly an ally of St Kieran of Cape Clear, had established a church predating the castle on the island.

A narrow channel between the island and the mainland afforded a strong position for the defenders to repel any attacks. The hinterland was too rough to allow for attacking troop movements. That left the open sea. And outside there lay Mannin Island, which formed another barrier.

The Roaringwater Bay island castle was constructed by a branch of the MacCarthys, who were known as the Clan Dermod, in around 1450. It was probably built initially to take advantage of lucrative fishing grounds which were already being exploited by the O’Driscolls and O’Mahonys.

One writer wrote of Mannin Beg that “it barely suffices to give a solid foundation” and that it was certainly not built by a labourers cottages’ contractor, for the mortar, despite the ravages of almost four centuries, is still “as firm as flint”. In style, it is Norman Gothic, with vaulted arches. It is not, strictly speaking, a castle, but rather a fortified tower house.

In the late 16th century, English fears of a Spanish invasion of Ireland, which culminated in the Battle of Kinsale in 1601, saw West Cork castles from Castletownbere to Glandore taken by the English. The uprising of the Gaelic chieftains in the north was matched by those in the south, but against the superior tactics and ordnance of the English, it failed abjectly. The flight of the Earls was under way.

By this time the MacCarthys had inter-married with the O’Driscolls, and Conor O’Driscoll — son of the charismatic Sir
Fineen O’Driscoll — had come to occupy Kilcoe Castle. It was the last to hold out against English besiegement under lord president of Munster George Carew.

However, the remnant Kilcoe occupants held on to their castle for several more decades after its fall in 1603.

It fell into ruin for several centuries before its recent rebirth.

By 1649, the Clan Dermods family had scattered to the continent, especially France. Their lands were forfeited under Cromwellian diktat. Some set up business in Bordeaux as traders.

Historian John Hawkes writes that in 1863, a painting was seen in a Franciscan chapel in Syracuse (Italy). It had an inscription in Italian claiming “that she was Anastasia Fitzgibbon, daughter of Florence MacCarthy of Kilcoa, Lord of Clandermot in the County of Cork”. This appears to be the end of the line for that branch.

On a recent visit to the island, Jeremy
explained that he has searched in Italy
(Syracuse) for the graves of the MacCarthys, but to no avail. On departing, I
encouraged him to take good care of the castle, as it would be wanted back by the clan at some stage.

The original owner of Mannin Beg was Diarmuid Mac Carthaig (Jeremy). There is another islet in Roaringwater Bay also called Jeremy, so the current owner completes a trilogy of sorts. He also owns Mannin Island.

• How to get there: Private island. Can be seen from the main road or from the sea.
• Other: Kilcoe Castle and Clan Dermod MacCarthy by John Hawkes, The Mizen Journal; Southern Star 11.11.1893; jeremyirons.net