Gougane Barra, Co Cork

Six trails start at a car park within the National Park where there are map boards and a large, stone toilet building. There are three options for reaching the Trailhead: (1) Park at St Finbarr’s Oratory and walk the forest motor road (all but trafficless) to the trailhead (2) drive past the Oratory, park outside the motor toll gate and walk, via the motor road, to the Trailhead (3) pay the toll, drive into the park, and leave the car at the trailhead.

The (1) option allows a visit to the stone-built oratory and ancient monastic cells picturesquely set on the lake, a broad extent of brown, placid water, enhanced by the white swans, and the steep cliffs of the Shehy Mountains on the nearby opposite shore. We walk a path between lawns and neat trees to the cells, mounting a few steps to enter an enclosure surrounded by mossy stone walls.

A plaque explains that Finbarr established this foundation in the 6th century, that “Here, he communed with God, the surrounding mountains were his cloister and the lake was for him the mirror of God’s grandeur”. It is, indeed, an inspiring place, with a palpable spirituality. A second plaque explains the orders in which to do The Rounds, this entailing a prayerful circuit of the site, a holy well, stream and tomb. Finbarr followed the way of the River Lee, beside the headwaters of which we will shortly stroll, to become “the first bishop and founder of the church and city of Cork.” At centre is a tall, wooden cross, the site of Finbarr’s cell, no longer extant. Around the periphery are eight identical arched cells, accommodation for his monastic community.