Walk of the Week: Kerry Way, Blackwater River

WE have parked opposite the old Post Office, marked on the OS map. Before setting off, we should certainly retrace our steps to the Blackwater Bridge — we will be re-crossing it on our return, but viewing it before we start will make us aware, when we see the Blackwater River upstream, of how romantic and wild it is in this gorge.

The double arched limestone bridge crossing the deep abyss was constructed in 1839, replaced an earlier bridge. To stand on the parapet and look straight down is a heady experience. The tall, narrow arches rise high over the dark river, broken into white water as it rushes over black rock far below. They support a roadway hardly wide enough for two cars to pass. Because of this constriction, and adding to its character, the parapets feature an indented refuges on either side where pedestrians step in to avoid traffic. Built of local stone, the bridge fits appropriately into the natural environment; the bedrock over which the cataract runs is also limestone.

Returning to the Old Post Office, we take the road on the left side of it, the L7545, signposted Maulcalee. After a half kilometer, the Kerry Way veers off left, via a ladder stile. It is some 215 km (134 miles) long, the longest of Irelands National Waymarked Trails. We ignore the stile and continue up the quiet road ahead, flanked by silver birch, goat willow and holly, trees typical of Ireland’s native flora; the tall gorse (French gorse) is, in fact, a deliberate import, naturalised here for centuries. The Blackwater is below us on the right, distinctly heard and often seen, with falls and rapids. A notice states that fishing is prohibited without licence. Knocknagullion, a rounded hill of 415m, rises on our left. A narrow anglers’ path runs along the river bank.

As the vegetation thins, we see that the river is, here, a broad, dark, slow-moving stream, with shaded pools that, no doubt, offer refuge to salmon as they go upriver to spawn. We reach a neat hut on the left, apparently the “HQ” of the Kerry Blackwater Salmon Fishery. A wooden table and benches alongside offers an excellent picnic spot. The big rounded mountains to the west are Knocknagantee, Knockmoyle and Finnararagh, all not far short of 700m. Beyond them are Waterville and Portmagee.

The road now runs through bogland, with lower hills on the right. 2km. past the hut, we reach a T-junction and the R568, with a signpost, Sneem and Parknasilla left, Killarney right. We go right, crossing Gearha Bridge.

About 1km along, we leave the road, taking an unsurfaced bog track down to the right. After 1km, we arrive at a narrow, tarred byroad and go left. This quiet road takes us to another T, where we turn right, descend and cross a bridge over the pretty Derreendarra River. We are on the Ring of Kerry Cycle Route, and pass the Blackwater Tavern and Post Office, ignoring the two roads left.

The road runs through bogland and is typically straight. Low, reddish bog myrtle had colonised the wet ground. Soon, we come upon magnificent views of the Caha Mountains to the southwest beyond Kenmare Bay, which is hidden by the contours. The road is wooded as we head downhill, and soon reach the Blackwater Bridge and our trailhead.

GET THERE

Start point: From Cork take the N22 via Macroom. Drive down Kenmare’s Main St and across The Square. Take the N70, signposted Ring of Kerry. From Killarney (N71) turn right just before reaching The Square. About 9km from Kenmare, cross the narrow Blackwater Bridge at a sharp left turn. Immediately after crossing, park on the left verge. This is our trailhead.

Distance/time: 8km/2hrs.

Difficulty:

Easy, on roads and bog track.

Map: OS Discovery 84

For maps and information on Ordnance Survey products visit: www.osi.ie

CLUB NEWS

ACTION CANCER 4 PEAKS CHALLENGE, MAY 16-18

This challenge is a fundraiser organised by the Action Cancer charity. Set over two weekends, the event’s aim is to visit the highest point in each of Ireland’s four provinces. This weekend sees participants tackle Lugnaquillia, Carrauntoohil and Mweelrea. For an information pack, contact Leigh at [e-mail]

BLACKSTAIRS CHALLENGE WALK

MAY 17: This 30km (9hrs) mountain walk along the Carlow-Wexford border is organised by the Wayfarers Hillwalking Club. Beginning at Killanure and ending in Glynn, the walk is open anyone over the age of 16, and certificates will be awarded to all those who participate. See wayfarersassociation.com for further details.

SOUTHERN AREA HOSPICE CROAGH PATRICK CHALLENGE

MAY 17: A weekend for walkers of all abilities, to raise funds for the Southern Area Hospice in Newry, Co Down. See southernareahospiceservices.org for further details.