Walk of the Week: Kerry Way, Blackwater River

WE have parked opposite the old Post Office, marked on the OS map. Before setting off, we should certainly retrace our steps to the Blackwater Bridge — we will be re-crossing it on our return, but viewing it before we start will make us aware, when we see the Blackwater River upstream, of how romantic and wild it is in this gorge.

The double arched limestone bridge crossing the deep abyss was constructed in 1839, replaced an earlier bridge. To stand on the parapet and look straight down is a heady experience. The tall, narrow arches rise high over the dark river, broken into white water as it rushes over black rock far below. They support a roadway hardly wide enough for two cars to pass. Because of this constriction, and adding to its character, the parapets feature an indented refuges on either side where pedestrians step in to avoid traffic. Built of local stone, the bridge fits appropriately into the natural environment; the bedrock over which the cataract runs is also limestone.

Returning to the Old Post Office, we take the road on the left side of it, the L7545, signposted Maulcalee. After a half kilometer, the Kerry Way veers off left, via a ladder stile. It is some 215 km (134 miles) long, the longest of Irelands National Waymarked Trails. We ignore the stile and continue up the quiet road ahead, flanked by silver birch, goat willow and holly, trees typical of Ireland’s native flora; the tall gorse (French gorse) is, in fact, a deliberate import, naturalised here for centuries. The Blackwater is below us on the right, distinctly heard and often seen, with falls and rapids. A notice states that fishing is prohibited without licence. Knocknagullion, a rounded hill of 415m, rises on our left. A narrow anglers’ path runs along the river bank.