West Cork: A view of ‘life’ from 4,000 years ago

Castletownshend and Castlehaven

WITH the church in front of us, we set off right. Taking great care on this short, busy road, we continue until we come to a gate on the right, with a green road leading to Knockdrum Fort. Bronze Age, 3,000 to 4,000 years old, it was ‘restored’ in the mid-19th century and is wonderfully preserved. There are 80 steps to reach the top. The view is spectacular. Ahead and below, we have a 180° panorama of sky, sea and islands; behind us, 180° of undulating landscape, rising to blue, distant hills. Knockdrum was a lookout point for invaders. It offers one of Munster’s finest vistas. On a clear day, we see as far as Hungry Hill, on the Beara Peninsula, and the Macgillicuddy Reeks, near Killarney.

Leaving the fort, we retrace our route along the green road. Three tall, slim ‘pillar’ stones stand stark against the skyline on the hill on our left. How extraordinary they are, standing there for, perhaps, 4,000 years, aligned with the rising sun on midsummer day.