Kerry: If you go down to the woods today...
AFTER parking, we take the right arm of the Y, the track signposted for Tomies Wood.
There is little human settlement on this western shore of Lough Leane and none of the crowds of Killarney. We enjoy panoramic views across the lake to the islands and town. There is a good chance of seeing deer, especially at evening. In October, one may hear the eerie whistling of sika stags and the roaring of red deer in rut.
The lower slopes of Tomies Mountain supports an extensive sessile oak wood. Until about 1580 it was a wild wood, then came heavy exploitation for charcoal for iron smelting and bark for tanneries.
Grazing animals did even more damage, consuming new shoots and saplings. Grazing was banned, and the wood clear-felled and replanted in the early 1800s.
Walking on a track across fields, we pass through gates and pass a white house with a barn. There is rough grazing and French gorse between us and the bare slopes which, further on, are wooded.
Soon, we have sight of Lough Leane, and islands. A deep, wooded cleft runs below Tomies peak, between an unnamed hill and the gorse covered slopes of Gortadina.
Beyond a wooden gate and a sign for Killarney National Park, a bridge crosses a stream.
O’Sullivan’s Cascade is signed left; we ignore it and take the track right (we visit the cascade later). For the afternoon walker, this clockwise circuit brings us along the lake shore when the western sun is low on the water Tomies Peak, 735m, is visible above the cleft in the slope.
Gorse, mosses, fungi, large oaks and rhododendrons, all are present along with beautiful club mosses and sphagnum. In October, we will hear the red deer stags from the upland herd bellowing in the woods below. The two Killarney herds, numbering about 800, have ranged hereabouts since the last Ice Age.
Oak becomes the dominant species. On the right, the slope falls away to the lake below. Soon, we have fine, open views over Lough Leane. Mangerton, at 839m, is the big mountain to our right. The lake islands are mostly wooded; some have limestone outcrops. We see Ross Castle, on the peninsula opposite, and Innisfallen island, the most important monastic site in the Killarney Valley. The Annals of Innisfallen, recording Ireland’s ancient history, was written there in the 11th century. The monastery was burned by Cromwellians in 1652.
The path descends gently; we cross a stream which, lower down, becomes O’Sullivan’s Cascade. The background is Shehy Mountain, 571m. We are now truly in the uplands. The view at Ross Castle is of grandeur and classic beauty.
Walking downhill, we may see small brown deer, the stags with branched antlers, and both sexes with white rumps. The Killarney sika are internationally important as one of the purest herds that remain. We hear O’Sullivan’s Cascade below us; the steep pathway reaching it is signposted. It is named for one of O’Sullivan lords of the valley who, legend tells, defied Finn McCool, the ancient Irish hero, who caused the cascade to run with whiskey until the English came.
Passing between hummocky oak woods, we reach a downhill path. Soon, we are on the track to the trailhead, walked earlier, but the views are new.
Start: From Killarney take Ring of Kerry (N72 Killorglin) road. After 5 km, go left at brown signpost “Gap of Dunloe”. After crossing River Laune, we reach a curve, almost a T-junction, at Cullane Bridge. Go left, signposted “Lough Leane”. About 0.7 kms along, we come to a “Y” junction — our Trailhead. Park here.
Distance /Time: Loop approx. 9 km, 5.5 mls. Binoculars invaluable.
Difficulty: Off-road tracks and forest paths.
Map: OS Discovery 78
- For maps and information on Ordnance Survey products visit: www.osi.ie
ARDARA HILLWALKING CLUB (http://www.ardarahillwalking.com)
Aug 18: Galtybeg and Galtymore (weather permitting: check website for info.) Grade B, 10km, 4 hrs, meet Horse and Jockey 12 noon.
DUNGARVAN WALKING CLUB (www.dungarvanhillwalking.org)
Summer evening walks held on Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays. Meet Lawlor's Hotel, 9pm.
Routes: Brickey River and Kilnafarna Hills: 7.5miles/12km. 3hrs. 2 miles from Dungarvan on road to Clashmore. Colligan Wood: 3.5miles/5.6km, 1.5hrs. 5 miles from Dungarvan on Clonmel Road. Famine Walk: 2.2mls/3.5km, 45mins, 2.5 miles from Dungarvan . Left towards Rinn off Cork Road. Seanachie Pub and Marine Bar are on route.
OMAGH WALKING FESTIVAL (www.omaghwalkingfestival.com)
Aug 17: The Robbers’ Table, £5, off-road hill walk with views of Bluestack and High Sperrin Mountains, Moderate. Loop 12km, 3.5 hrs. Meet and register Gortin Glens Forest Park, 10am.
Aug 18: Gortin Glens Forest Park, Sloughan Glen to Mulnavar over Bolagh Mountain. Challenging, 13km. Meet and register Gortin Glens Forest Park, 10am.
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