Roll out the rhubarb

It’s rhubarb season again, and this vegetable, which we like to cook as a fruit, has adapted so well to Irish gardens and taste buds, one would be forgiven for calling it a native.

However, this pink stemmed, large leafed, kindred of dock and sorrel originates from Asia and is naturally low in sugar, lending it a unique tart taste.

More often than not, its fusion with sugar or honey tames its tartness and makes for the most delicious culinary creations. From sublimely zesty crumbles, tarts, pies, puddings, fools, mousses, jam, relish, wine, chutney, compotes, sauces, sorbets, ice cream and even champagne, there is much more to rhubarb than just a custard combo. Ginger, orange, elderflowers and strawberries are considered its greatest allies and cropping from mid-spring to late autumn, there is plenty of time to experiment with the myriad of rhubarb recipes that exist and that are yet to be invented.

RHUBARB AND YOUR HEALTH

The health properties of this perennial are sometimes subject to scrutiny — only the pink stems are edible as rhubarb leaves are poisonous and should never be consumed.

We have all heard stories about rhubarb and bad joints and there’s a truth in some of the homespun wisdom — the plant is high in oxalic acid, which is reputed to inhibit the absorption of iron and calcium and can also aggravate joint problems, such as arthritis. Rhubarb, too, is noted for being a rich source of dietary fibre, vitamin C, calcium and potassium and known to be an effective laxative.

Its low sugar content could also be considered a health benefit, but I think the lashings of sugar that usually adorn it, could negate that particular boon. When using rhubarb it is best to adhere to the old adage, ‘everything in moderation’.

RHUBARB AND YOUR GARDEN

Rhubarb is a perennial and once you have planted it, you should have it for good. It grows on any good garden soil, in full sun or light shade. It loves plenty of dung and will give a bumper crop, once established. Rhubarb stools or crowns can still be planted from pots and, generally, you do not harvest in the first year to allow it establish. In winter, give it a good dressing of straw and manure and wait to see the green leaves and beautiful pink stems emerge to herald the arrival of spring. Pull (don’t cut) the pink stems as you want them and always leave a few stalks, so as not to rob the plant excessively.

The leaves, though poisonous, are safe to compost. If boiled in water, the resultant concoction could be used as a foliage spray to deter mites and aphids and can also be used to clean tough grime on pots or pans. Both scientific research and old wives’ tales suggest that a piece of rhubarb placed under a brassica seedling or a rhubarb-based foliar spray might just frighten off club-root.

Rhubarb springs up at exactly the right time — it appears to brighten up the garden and to bring some sweet and sour zest to the kitchen.

RHUBARB CHAMPAGNE/FIZZ (NON-ALCOHOLIC)

This slightly fizzy, delicious, non-alcoholic drink is super easy to make and its lovely rosé colour is sure to impress children and adults alike.

* 3½ cups rhubarb (cut fine)

* 1 lemon, preferably organic and unwaxed (sliced fine)

* 3½ cups sugar

* 150ml white vinegar

* 20 cups cold water

Mix all ingredients together. Let stand in a bucket for 48 hours (4 days is better) covered with a clean cloth. Stir daily. Strain and bottle.

DO NOT try to keep this champagne for too long as it tends to become very gassy, and you may have some exploding bottles, so drink up and enjoy!