Weekend food with Darina Allen

THE River Café on the edge of the Thames in Hammersmith was started as a staff canteen for architect Richard Rodgers and his team in 1985. His wife Ruthie and her friend Rose Gray loved to cook and had fun reproducing the Italian food they enjoyed on holiday in Tuscany and Florence.

The food was simple but always made with the freshest and most beautiful seasonal produce, gorgeous olive oils and wonderful cheese and cured meat. The word spread like wildfire, an invitation to lunch was much sought after, so in 1987 they decided to open to the public.

A friend from London sent me a postcard, “Come quickly, there’s a brilliant little café on the Thames serving delicious simple food in the Elizabeth David style”.