Myrtle Allen’s Plum Pudding with Brandy Butter

THE tradition that every member of the Allen household could have a wish that was likely (note, never a firm promise) to come true, was, of course, a ruse to get all the children to help with heavy work of stirring the pudding.

I only discovered this after I was married and had to do job myself. This recipe, multiplied many times, was made all at once. In a machineless age, mixing all those expensive ingredients properly was a formidable task. Our puddings were mixed in an enormous china crock which held the bread for the household for the rest of the year. My mother, nanny and the cook took it in turns to stir, falling back with much panting and laughing after a few minutes’ work. I don’t think I was really much help to them.

Christmas puddings should be given at least six weeks to mature and will keep for a year. They become richer and firmer with age, but one loses the lightness of the fruit flavour. We always eat our last plum pudding at Easter.

If possible, prepare your own fresh beef suet: it is better than the pre-packed product.

6oz (175g) shredded beef suet

6oz (175g) sugar

7oz (200g) soft breadcrumbs

8oz (225g) currants

8oz (225g) raisins

4oz (110g) candied peel

1-2 tsp mixed spice

a pinch of salt

2 tbsp flour

2 fl ozs (50ml) flesh of a baked apple

3 eggs

2 fl ozs (50ml) Irish whiskey

1 x 3-pint (1.75-litre) capacity pudding bowl

Mix the ingredients thoroughly. Whisk the eggs and add them with the apple and whiskey. Stir very well. Fill into the greased pudding bowl. Cover with a round of greaseproof paper or a butter-wrapped pressed down on top of the pudding. Put a large round of greaseproof or brown paper over the top of the bowl, tying it firmly under the rim.

Place in a saucepan that’s one-third full of boiling water and simmer for 10 hours. Do not allow it to boil over the top and do not let it boil dry either. Store in a cool place until needed.

Boil for 1.5-2 hours before serving. Leftover pudding may be fried in butter. Serve with whiskey cream or brandy butter.

Brandy Butter

(Gluten-free)

3oz (75g) butter

3oz (75g) icing sugar

2-6 tbsp brandy

Cream the butter until very light, add the icing sugar and beat again. Then beat in the brandy, drop by drop.

If you have a food processor, use it: you will get a wonderfully light and fluffy brandy butter. Store covered in a glass jar. It will keep for several weeks.