Irish fashion designer Paul Costelloe dies aged 80

Paul Costello. Picture: Nick Bradshaw

Irish fashion designer Paul Costelloe, one of the most recognisable names in Irish style and a longtime fixture at London Fashion Week, has died aged 80.

In a statement, his family said they were “deeply saddened to announce the passing of Paul Costelloe following a short illness”.

“He was surrounded by his wife and seven children and passed peacefully in London,” they said, while asking for privacy.

Mr Costelloe, who trained at the Grafton Academy of Fashion Design, began his career at the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture in Paris, before becoming design assistant to designer Jacques Esterel, later moving to Milan to support Marks and Spencer in their drive to enter the Italian market.

Marks And Spencer’s move into Italy was unsuccessful, but the Irish-American remained in Milan as designer for the luxury department store La Rinascente, before moving to the US, where he was appointed as designer to Anne Fogarty in New York.

He launched his own label — Paul Costelloe Collections — in 1979 after successful stints working abroad in Paris, Milan and New York.

He went on to build an international reputation, presenting collections at London Fashion Week for more than 35 years.

Speaking to the Irish Examiner in February, Mr Costello told of how he still loved his work. His show at London Fashion week for Spring Summer 2025 included wedding dresses for the first time.

“I think that’s really where I come from, that age is like a university. You know, you’ve got all this knowledge and you should be sharing it, and every year you’re richer for it. So I’ve got no complaints from that point of view,” he said.

“The more experience you have in this industry, the better you are. Why should I step back from that epitaph? What I have is [an] incredible amount of knowledge, incredible amount of knowing what’s right, what’s wrong, so should I step back and go slower?"

In 1983, he was appointed personal designer to Diana, Princess of Wales, a role he held until her death in 1997. 

Mr Costello had spoken of how one of her staff spotted his designs in a small shop in Windsor which led to a meeting with Diana in Kensington Palace.

He mostly dressed her for formal occasions, but one of his most memorable outfits for the late princess was a chiffon skirt that became slightly see-through when backlit, that caused some controversy.

The collaboration brought him global attention and cemented his status as one of Ireland’s leading designers.

“I think there are always these people who you can throw anything on them, and they look great,” he told the Irish Examiner. 

“She could be the girl next door. She could be your neighbour. She could be something you will see briefly and never again.”

Over the past two decades, Costelloe also developed a highly successful partnership with Dunnes Stores, producing fashion and homeware lines that became staples for Irish shoppers.

In October Dunne Stories marked 20 years of collaboration with Mr Costello describing this as “two decades of creativity, craftsmanship and partnership”.

Most recently, he served as the closing designer for the inaugural Ireland Fashion Week in October, underscoring his enduring influence on the industry.

He continued to lead the design team for his company until his death.

Costelloe is survived by his wife and seven children. Further funeral details have not yet been announced.

 - additional reporting from PA