State papers reveal Haughey grumbling about venison pâté and trout sauce

The annual release of State papers from the National Archives reveals the then-Taoiseach expressed his displeasure at the quality of the food served at a European Council summit in Dublin in April 1990.

Charles Haughey’s reputation as a lover of fine dining came under threat in 1990 when he hosted EU leaders in Dublin and branded a venison pâté served to his guests as “a disaster”. 

The annual release of State papers from the National Archives reveals the then-Taoiseach expressed his displeasure at the quality of the food served at a European Council summit in Dublin in April 1990, describing it as “only of good pub grub standard”.

A regular of upmarket restaurants like Le Coq Hardi and Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud, the Fianna Fáil leader was particularly underwhelmed by the venison pâté.

A memo recorded by an official in the Department of the Taoiseach noted: 

The Taoiseach confirmed that he was disappointed with the standard of the meals. He described the venison pate — served at the lunch — as a disaster.” 

Mr Haughey’s demand for high culinary standards should have come as no surprise, and he suggested that the owner of Le Coq Hardi, John Howard, should be engaged to cater for further State dinners due to take place two months later.

Le Coq Hardi became synonymous with Mr Haughey, who was a frequent diner at the fashionable restaurant in Ballsbridge, Dublin.

The Moriarty Tribunal, which examined large payments to a number of politicians, including Mr Haughey, revealed that he had run up a bill of over IR£15,000 of taxpayers’ money at the restaurant in 1991.

State files show that the Taoiseach also grumbled about a sauce served with the trout at the dinner for EU leaders, saying it was “the subject of adverse comment”. 

He added: “Could we do better by having Guilbaud or/and Le Coq Hardi people involved?”