Every two years, the art world descends on Venice in a flurry of who’s who, cocktail parties, and great outfits, says Michelle Darmody.

You can say this much for certain about Damien Hirst — he doesn’t do low-key and his latest exhibition is no exception.

Never mind the gondolas, Venice has gone mad for currachs.

FIRST there were artists. Then there were patrons — rich people with enough good taste that they enabled artists to live and make their art.