WE ARE on Easter holidays and have fetched up in Kilkenny and, though this terrific town offers splendid dining choices, we only have eyes for Ristorante Rinuccini, 30 years old this year yet overly long on my radar without so much as a shot across the bows.

I was asked recently what wine region I would most like to live in full-time and after a few moments thought I surprised myself by choosing not Burgundy or Provence but Piedmont in Northern Italy.

Ristorante Rinuccini,