AS we pass the premises that formerly housed the late and very lamented Idá’s, just across from Doyle’s, I feel more than a pang for the now-closed Dingle restaurant where chef/proprietor Kevin Murphy delivered some truly exceptional food for the bones of three years, the class of fare I always believed could have crowned the town’s already sterling food offering with a Michelin star. But, just as Stella Doyle discovered when she took the plunge back in 1973 and opened Doyle’s Seafood Restaurant, a new culinary concept can take time to bed in to a local market, especially if you also have to set about creating that market in the first place.