Swimming with endangered sea turtles in the Maldives was nothing short of a miracle

A close encounter in an Indian Ocean lagoon offers Vickie Maye a chance to overcome her lifetime fear of water

Sat, 28 Feb, 2026 - 01:00

Vickie Maye

The turtle stretches its body, its front flippers press against the water, sweeping down and back in a giant, reaching circle. Between strokes it glides, effortlessly, and suddenly, this prehistoric creature is right in front of my face.

It’s so close I could reach out and touch it.

Its shell, like ancient, grooved stone, is a rich blend of honey and dark browns - a striking contrast against the vast, pristine expanse of cobalt sea.

The hawksbill reaches the surface and raises its head - I lift my face from the ocean to see it bob for air, soaking up the heat of the sun.

Hawksbill sea turtle swimming over a reef in the South Ari Atoll, Maldives. The hawksbill sea turtle is listed as Critically Endangered by the IUCN.

I lower my face again, floating in the balmy, glass-clear water, and this other world unfolds before me again. Flooded with moving shafts of sunlight, beneath me I witness this underwater paradise in vibrant detail.

The soft coral dances with the current - orange neon clownfish weave in and around this underwater garden in a moment so colourful, so visceral, it’s like watching a scene from Finding Nemo.

Our eyes follow the deep blue and neon yellow surgeonfish as they flit, darting left and right. The parrotfish drift elegantly through the waters, the snapper sift by in silvery clouds.

I turn my head left and catch my breath as I take in the endless deep blue abyss at the edge of the reef.

I’m in tears as I emerge from the water. For someone who took months of lessons to overcome a fear of water just to float in my depth, this underwater adventure feels like nothing short of a miracle.

NH Collection Maldives Reethi Resort situated on a private island in the Maldives

I’m elated, rambling excitedly, crying one moment, laughing the next - all day long I have flashes of this once in a lifetime encounter. I bask in the awe, in the pure joy, of sharing the water with a creature that has moved in these oceans for decades.

It’s my Maldives miracle. And there are so many other quiet, magical moments on this three-day trip to the Indian Ocean.

The clock seems to slow when you snorkel here - unfazed by your presence, the turtles cruise, drifting to graze on sea grass. And you realise you are slowing down too, to match their timeless pace.

It’s the same above water.

Usually, my iPhone works on lists, separate sprawling pages for work, the kids, shopping, bills - all of life’s demands and responsibilities consume my phone.

On holidays, and especially on work trips, I’m anxious to tick every box, explore every opportunity. If I’m writing a travel article especially, I want it to be rich in detail.

But here, my lists are bare. The resort island that is my home for three days is too far from the mainland to visit the capital, Male. I can’t see anything outside of this intimate, 500m island. And it’s liberating. I have to relax, to go with the flow. There’s no to-do list to be ticked. This is, I realise, how a holiday should be.

The Republic of Maldives lies in the Indian Ocean, an hour’s flight from Sri Lanka and India. There are over a thousand coral islands dotted around 26 ring-like atolls (natural ridges rising from the ocean), and they are spread over 90,000 square km. It means an astonishing 99% of the country is made up of sea. From north to south, this string of islands covers around 800km. Extending to just below the Equator, balmy conditions are a given.

An over water villa in the NH Collection Maldives Reethi Resort

Of these islands, around 200 are inhabited by locals, and around 150 are private resort islands.

We fly to the capital, Male, via London on a cold Saturday in January. The arrival instantly immerses us in the exotic. A seaplane waits to transport us 40 minutes to the island. It’s exhilarating, a breathtaking introduction to this piece of paradise from the air - turquoise waters, lush green islands framed with white sandy beaches. There’s a moment of tension as we land - touching down on the near-transparent, crystal waters, there is no runway ahead, just the vast expanse of sea. The plane shudders as it hits the water, and then, in an instant, floats easily on the water.

You emerge onto a discreet seaplane pontoon, a wooden platform gently resting in the Maldivian seas. We barely adjust to this new, strange environment when a speedboat emerges, straight from the scene of a Bond movie, to bring us to our island resort.

As we emerge from the boat, we pivot from 007 to The White Lotus - staff await our arrival, lining the walkway, the beat of a bongo pulling us deeper into this exotic world.

I’m staying at the NH Collection Maldives Reethi Resort. This private resort is located on Fonimagoodhoo Island in the Baa Atoll, a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, most famous for Hanifaru Bay and its seasonal manta ray sightings. Formerly known as the Reethi Beach Resort, the NH Collection, with a global portfolio of properties, closed the resort last year for eight months for a full refurbishment and renovation.

The transformation is remarkable. Iconic oversea villas - thatched-roof bungalows perched on stilts above crystal-

clear lagoons - have turquoise doors and windows that reflect the piercing blue of the waters. Synonymous with the Maldives and the promise of paradise, floor to ceiling windows overlook the ocean, with steps from the decking to bring you ankle deep into the Indian Ocean. Each of the 30 overwater villas face the sunset and lie just a short swim from the house reef for resort-based snorkelling. The sound of the sea, of the waves lapping against the steel stints that secure the villas, is a soothing night balm.

Inside, the decor is calming, with warm neutrals offering a contrast to the kaleidoscope of tropical colours outside. Grounded in the landscape through the use of natural materials such as timber and bamboo, little welcome notes from staff crafted from local reeds and flowers bring a cosy, curated and very personal touch.

NH Collection Maldives Reethi Resort Deluxe Sunset Villa

There are 105 accommodation options from these overseas villas, to beachside bungalows. A couple’s paradise, there are also larger, two-bedroom options for families. The newly opened kids’ club is every parents’ dream with brand new slides, and ball pits - all supervised by the team on site. There are separate pools - one for families and another infinity option adjoining the slick beachside bar. The attention to detail and client experience is exceptional - on this small 500m island two vastly different holidays lie side by side.

The wedges in my suitcase lie unused for the three days I am there - the sandy pathways that zigzag through the island, guiding us to beaches or restaurants, are better suited to laidback Birkenstocks. Or better still, barefoot luxury. Even the pilots on our seaplane wear their formal uniforms, but eschew any footwear.

Of course, it’s not all castaway seclusion. There’s a range of high-octane water sports and experiences to try in this island hideaway, as well as an on-site gym and tennis court for fitness enthusiasts.

For those more inclined towards wellness at this paradise retreat, the Revive Spa is a sanctuary. There’s the bespoke Maldivian Delight – with a coconut scrub and virgin coconut oil massage - while the Couples Ritual offers a shared massage, with a milk and coconut bath overlooking the tropical garden. Open to the tropical elements, it is a multi-sensorial release from tension.

And then there’s the food. As you’d expect from an island fishing nation, there’s a smorgasbord of seafood options across the eight restaurants, ranging from breezy to refined. Each one offers a fresh, spicy, and fragrant blend of South Asian, Sri Lankan, and Indian influences, centered on three staples: coconut, fish (tuna features on every menu), with rice or root vegetables.

Jumla is all the all day dining option. At breakfast, staff have coffee orders learned off by the second morning, and the breakfast buffet offers everything from omelettes to tropical fruits.

The Kaiyo restaurant in NH Collection Maldives Reethi Resort

The Asian-influenced Kaiyo (which means ‘ocean’ in Japanese) is perched over water with 360° ocean views. The menu is a harmony of contrasts with dishes like Japanese miso black cod, and Balinese chicken with chilli lemongrass and turmeric coconut rice. The focus is on grilled fish and meat at Alifaan – meaning ‘fire/flame’ in Maldivian. Here you curl and twist your toes in the white sand floor, as you dine on seafood pulled fresh from sea.

The Alifaan restaurant in NH Collection Maldives Reethi Resort

For more casual dining, at Madumaithiri, a pizza oven is fired up for comfort eating.

On our final night, and in a once-in-a-lifetime experience, we savour private dining by candlelight on the beach, with lobster, prawns, fresh salads and steaks grilled by our own private chef. Part of the resort’s signature “Adrift” experience, couples can also request private dining on a secluded sandbar in the middle of the ocean.

The morning of my departure, I step on to the speedboat to catch my seaplane. I turn my head for a final look at the island of paradise. Three of the staff stand on the jetty, their arms crossed over their hearts. As the boat begins to move, their arms extend towards me in unison. A fitting farewell, it’s an emotionally-charged piece of choreography, echoing the graceful flow of the underwater world just days before.

Escape Notes