“Finally, please tuck your pants inside your socks,” our rifle-clad guide advises, as we descend into the Kyambura Gorge in western Uganda. It’s a deep, 11km-long cutting, a sunken streak of tropical rainforest etched through tree-dotted grasslands to either side. Exactly how this will deter the smattering of hippo, elephant and buffalo on the valley floor —ignoring the fresh lion tracks we gauge hiking down the winding path – I am not quite sure.
“Because, if not,” she continues, “the ants will invade your legs, I tell you, up until they attack central government.”Â
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