Estate of the Art: Liss Ard Estate is a special place with plenty of unique experiences 

The 19th Century estate is on point with so many of its offerings there were very few tweaks

Liss Ard Estate.

The last time I’d visited Liss Ard Estate, it was under a slightly less boujee guise: camping. A decade ago, during the West Cork property’s previous incarnation as a festival venue, I’d rocked out to Patti Smith and Cork band Fred before retiring to an adjacent field — and my pop-up tent — for the night. But this week, following Liss Ard’s recent purchase and renovation, I was returning to the Skibbereen estate and Ireland’s Blue Book retreat to experience what I would hope would be the ultimate upgrade.

First Impressions

Liss Ard is undoubtedly an evocative sight in any season but on the best Sunday of the summer, it's magnolia Georgian façade bursting through its tree-shrouded driveway is a pure vision. The 19th Century estate was bought by Californian Michael Johnston and his business partner Colin Best just last year and inside, the infectious Newport Beach native and his team are there to welcome us, welcome Prosecco at the ready. The lobby is elegant, light and airy with the almost haven feel of Dr Eva’s Solar Alvura but without any residual anxiety of impending calorie counting. I soon have my hands full with my key, map of the estate property and a welcome biscuit for my dog Vipp (Liss Ard is dog-friendly), which soon has him yanking towards the reception for seconds. There’s an instant unstuffy but polished energy here at Liss Ard, even if I’m slightly side-tracked by trying to save my glass of tipping Prosecco thanks to an over-exuberant golden retriever.

The 19th Century estate was bought by Californian Michael Johnston and his business partner Colin Best just last year.

Suite Talk

Liss Ard features twenty-six freshly made-over rooms split between the Georgian manor proper, the courtyard mews that flanks the main building, and Liss Ard’s Victorian lakehouse set idyllically alongside the shore. Vipp and I were staying in the mews where dog-friendly rooms feature hardwood flooring as well as handy private access to the courtyard gardens — perfect for a quick leg stretch. It’s a plush, boutique-feel room with a cloud-like king bed, walnut bedside tables and a marble en-suite with rainshower and gilded fixtures. Back in the manor, Edel would be hitting the eiderdown in one of Liss Ard’s generously proportioned suites which featured four poster bed, original fireplaces and a comely lounge area with views over the estate. Simple elegance is the aim for Liss Ard and you instantly feel that sense of calm, even without the aid of Prosecco.

The boutique-feel room fit with a cloud-like bed. Photo: Niamh Whitty/www.pictureitsold.ie

At Your Service

With 200 acres of veritable Garden of Eden allure, Liss Ard woos its guests with on-estate experiences from romantic garden strolls, canoeing, night kayaking and gourmet West Cork picnics. The hotel’s wellness options are inviting too and include a tea ceremony with sound bathing and yoga by the lake, however, given the beautiful bluebird day we were basking under, we opted to swelter up at Liss Ard’s gorgeous lakeside sauna before taking a refreshing dip. Dog in tow.

Vipp, of course, waited patiently outside and we enjoyed our fifteen-minute sauna cycles in the panoramic cabin, before joining Vipp outside with a plunge into the lake. It was the most glorious way to relax, bond with nature — and my madra.

Another awesome asset which Liss Ard boasts is its Sky Garden, an open-air landscape installation by the acclaimed Californian artist, James Turrell. We make our visit at dark where through a tomb passage à la Newgrange we ascend into a verdant grass crater centred around a tandem observation plinth. Lying back, the rim of the crater acted as the perfect lens as constellations popped out before our eyes in the most magical display.

The dog-friendly hotel is even a treat for furry friends.

Food & Drink

Liss Ard’s culinary centre stage is its Garden Restaurant where head Chef Alex Petit’s menu showcases a fine rollcall of local West Cork producers as well as much fresh produce grown on-site.

The basement dining setting with red brick flooring, bistro-style chairs and marble-top tables may have initially felt a little cool but I soon warmed to its Continental charm once I stopped comparing to my own preconceptions of country house dining.

My meal started off with a luxurious chowder starring John Dory, shellfish and caviar, topped upon service with a light, citrusy sauce laced with vermouth and dill. A pretty sublime dish. For my main, I opted for the sirloin served with tender stem broccoli, béarnaise and crispy “charred” new potatoes served with dollops of thyme crème fraiche. The steak lacked that outer sear I always relish but it was a fine cut of meat and washed down perfectly with a Malbec. Dessert was a chocolate délice which was equally delicious by name and it all capped a meal, which bar the gluten-free bread, was top drawer.

Breakfast was even more glorious, not least as it was served outside on the garden lawn terrace so Vipp could join us. As a coeliac, who avoids Full Irish fare, breakfast options can be a little dull for me so it’s always nice when an exciting gluten-free option catches my eye: my toasty buckwheat pancakes stuffed with mature cheddar and mushrooms were a seriously moreish start to the day, while Edel went for Union Hall kippers on sourdough. All al fresco on a stunning morning, this was a West Cork wake-up at its best.

Room to Improve

Liss Ard is on point with so many of its offerings there were only a few tweaks, perhaps subjective, we observed during our stay. With such a recently purchased and freshly renovated property, don’t expect the generational character of heirlooms and taxidermy to ooze from the walls here but rather that minimal elegance which offers an air of a calming sanctuary. At times, that minimalism can verge on the sparse, however, and some common areas and hallways could benefit from more character: perhaps a chaise longue or a piece of bold art. Liss Ard’s character will mature with time but it already feels like it has the potential to be daring.

Check out?

This a special place and there’s a welcoming energy which starts from owner Michael Johnston and seems to work right across the personable and conscientious team. Accommodation and dining were superb and those unique experiences from the lakeside saunas to the Sky Garden meant that our stay kept on hitting new crescendos. And hopefully yours, too? It’s been my best stay of the year so far and I’d highly recommend a getaway. Also, while accommodation rates have climbed recently, starter rates at Liss Ard from €199 for summer and €149 for autumn represent decent value for money right now. There is a €25 surcharge for dog stays; treats and a blanket are provided.

• Lissardestate.ie

Tom was a guest of the property for the purpose of this review.