Island hopping: Getaways without leaving the country
Keem Beach, Achill Island, Co Mayo
Tucked into the far west corner of Achill Island you’ll find a perfect crescent of golden sand otherwise known as Keem Beach, voted one of the most beautiful beaches in Europe by Lonely Planet. It’s one of the main reasons people flock to Ireland’s largest island, but there are plenty more trump cards: it’s both serene and dramatic at once with sheer cliffs and rolling hills and is the end (or the beginning depending on your journey) of the Great Western Greenway, one of the country’s best car-free cycling/walking trails. You can hike to Croaghaun Mountain to survey the Atlantic rollers that break off Ireland’s highest sea cliffs, spend a rainy day at the Achill Experience Aquarium, go dolphin spotting or surfing at Keel strand, canoeing on Keel lake, visit pirate queen Grace O’Malley’s castle or savour the atmosphere and a pint at Gielty’s pub, where you can legitimately say you had a drink in the most-westerly pub in Europe.
It might be a rocky start en route across the waters to wind-whipped Inishbofin, given its location off the rugged Connemara coast, but you’re in for a secluded treat. Given its compact size (six miles long × three miles wide), it’s easily explored by foot or bicycle and has some of the most magical postcard-worthy beaches, as well as looped walks, historical ruins, and opportunities for wild swimming, hiking, and horse riding, despite its pocket size. There’s also a heritage museum and a red bus that doubles as the Inishwallah restaurant serving a traditional and international menu.
Disembarking the car ferry onto this island is like stepping into a private paradise. There’s a touch of American camp-style adventure, but it’s tempered with a hit of lakeside luxury with 16 self-catering lodges and six cabins fully kitted out with mod-cons and verandahs looking out over the lake – perfect for that early-morning dip. The wooded island is a natural playground where you can kayak, take a boat out, do some off-road driving, and play tennis. Active kids will love the adventurous spirit and the fairy trails. There’s also a football pitch, bike hire, and an award-winning spa for when you want to rest up. Some huts have wood-burning stoves and are pet-friendly so be sure to enquire if you want to bring your pooch.
If you’re looking to get off-grid, go north to Rathlin Island, the only inhabited island off the coast of Northern Ireland where you’re likely to find deserted beaches whichever way you turn. Don’t go if you have a dislike of birds, the island is teeming with them: tens of thousands of seabirds, especially puffins, making it popular with bird watchers. Despite its size (six miles long × one mile wide), there’s plenty to keep you occupied with walking trails, shipwrecks, seal spotting, and bike hire. With a population of only 125, don’t expect a lively village: one pub, a small hotel, a restaurant, and a handful of B&Bs is what’s on offer, and delightfully so; this is pared back simplicity where the vibe is chilled.
There are over several hundred islands off the coast of Cork alone. Granted some are merely rocks inhabited by seals, but there are plenty worthy of a day trip and even a weekend getaway, including Sherkin. On a warm day it offers some of the most sublime, calm waters in which to swim as well as a quiet sanctuary that consists of a Franciscan friary dating to 1460 and the ruins of ivy-covered castle, Dun na Long. In between and beyond are scatterings of small cottages, rocky stretches, and sandy beaches, flora, and fauna. At the end of July it hosts the annual sailing regatta and in August hoards make the crossing for the lively music festival. Rent a bike and savour the never-ending views of the Atlantic.
Details: A regular ferry service operates from Baltimore harbour (adult €10 return). Sherkin North Shore is a basic but charming centre that offers rooms and often doubles as a centre for yoga, art and mindfulness getaways. Tuck into lobster and chowder at Jolly Roger’s pub and on the mainland The Waterfront in Baltimore is a long-established family hotel offering generous rooms, a cafe, and an acclaimed seafood restaurant.
Inis Mór might be the most popular of the three Aran islands, but quieter pleasures can be found on the smaller, middle island, Inis Meáin, which leans heavily into its traditional past, offering a real authentic Irish experience. Nowhere epitomises Oscar Wilde reference to Connemara’s “savage beauty” quite so much as the Aran Islands – in particular Inis Meáin – where extensions of the Burren’s lunar limestone landscape remain intact and untouched. It also boasts some of the world’s most beautiful butterfly species seen fluttering among the fields. History buffs will enjoy the eight archaeological sites including Dún Chonchúir at the island’s highest point, offering breath-taking panoramic views and a visit to playwright John Synge’s cottage. If you’ve the time, this corner of Ireland is so breath taking it’s worth cramming in more than one island.
Anyone fascinated by Megalithic history will revel in Bere Island’s rich archaeological history that includes ring forts, standing stones, wedge tombs, and Martello towers. For a small island (17 sq km) it certainly packs a punch: there are three looped trails for the active traveller as well as protected spots for fishing and swimming along the shoreline. Keep your eyes peeled for dolphins, whales, and basking sharks that frequent the waters around the island. To get up close and personal hop on a rib with Bere Island Sea Safari, which will take you scouting for sea life as well as lighthouses, caves, cliffs, and beaches. If you’re feeling particularly energetic you can join the weekly park run on Saturday mornings at 9.30am which loops around the island with views over Bantry Bay and Sheep’s Head peninsula.
Kerry is naturally spoiled: all those winding coastal roads that lasso lake-splattered mountains with wild clutches of islands offshore. Remote and rugged, Valentia is the most-westerly inhabited island in Europe but connected to the mainland by a bridge. It also happens to be the birthplace of the first transatlantic telegraph cable – not so remote after all. A big draw for all ages is the pre-historic tetrapod footprints that date to 385m years ago. Hike up Geokaun Mountain for views of the Skellig Islands or take a tour of the 17th-century Valentia lighthouse. Glanleam beach offers a secluded cove for swimming overlooked by a 250-year-old boathouse. Nearby Glanleam House and Gardens makes for a great pit-stop. Stay overnight in one of the self-catering houses or enjoy the tropical gardens, fairy trails, and dinner in the old house.
Sure, you can take a car or walk via the causeway or go by boat, but it’s far more exciting to go by horseback, across the silvery Sligo strands at low tide, racing back before the tide comes in. Expect rabbits, lots of them, since its where the island got its name (Coney is an old word for rabbit) and about six residents – the very definition of deserted. Despite its low population it did once have a bigger number of residents, evident in the elusive fairy forts, ancient stone circles and the magical St Patrick’s Well. The Coney Island walk is a favourite in Sligo and if you walk into the middle of the island you’ll find the village, the Coney Island Bar and Wards Pub.
The biggest and most-visited of the six Blasket Islands, the Great Blasket is stuck in a beautiful time warp with a ruined village, once home to more than 160 people including Peig Sayers, at its heart. You can visit her cottage and some of the houses have been restored for tourist accommodation. This is the last stop before Newfoundland and the feeling is palpable, so if you’re looking for “off-grid”, you’ve arrived.
The main reason the inhabitants jumped ship was due to the inhospitable weather so remember to come prepared. The limited accommodation includes five restored self-catering cottages and there are camping facilities and a cafe. Base yourself in Dingle and you can explore the pretty town and its environs with a day trip to the island; greatblasketisland.net
