A bear landscape: Tom Breathnach takes a trip of a lifetime to magical Manitoba

"800 polar bears migrate through its environs each summer, when their unique sea ice habitat melts, and they await the next winter’s big freeze"

Up close with a polar bear on a Manitoban adventure. Pic: Frontiers North Adventures/Michelle Valberg

I’m sitting in an airport hotel in Winnipeg, Manitoba, being briefed on the red-flag importance of, what else, but polar bear safety. It may seem a little alarmist but this is pretty much common sense-101 when travelling to the town dubbed 'The Polar Bear Capital of the World'.

“If you do encounter a polar bear walking around Churchill, remove yourself from the situation as soon as possible,” my Frontiers North Adventures guide, Duane Collins, advises our all-ears group as we prepare to set off. We’re embarking on their one-week Conservation Journey to Churchill to experience one of the world’s most beloved animals up close — but not too personal. And Duane’s advice is chillingly clear: “Get into the nearest car, building, or even someone’s home if you have to; people won’t think anything of it up in Churchill!”. In Canada’s subarctic, it really is a case that reality bites.