Autumn breaks: West Waterford is just the ticket for a dreamy escape
Vipp at the dog-friendly Salterbridge Lodge
We’re really falling for those fall activities these days, huh? It seems if we haven’t ordered pumpkin in our spiced latte, we’re off picking them in family-friendly patches, getting lost in corn mazes, baking apple pies or heading out on a leaf-peeping road-trip. Ireland may not quite match up to New England when it comes to the profusion of fall foliage (a lack of maples and an abundance of soggy rain are key factors at play here) but there are pockets of the country which make for particularly awesome autumn escapes. The Blackwater Valley in Co. Waterford is one of my favourite regions of the country as the leaves turn, so this week, I headed to the unheralded rustic refuge of Cappoquin for a weekend of seasonal tree hugging.
West Waterford has some dreamy options to stay in autumn. Dromana House, located outside Villierstown is one of my favourite self-catering options for larger groups in Ireland (see dromanahouse.ie) but for more intimate Country Living vibes, I checked into Salterbridge Gatelodge — a glorious regency property located at the entrance to the estate of the same name. The lodge, under the care of the Irish Landmark Trust, has been sensitively restored to its heyday, — you could imagine period drama behind each of its sash windows. An octagonal entrance hall welcomes me inside, with doorways leading to an inviting period bedroom, a cosy sitting room featuring wood-burning stove and a writing bureau, while a charming rustic kitchen is stocked with every aesthetic and practical necessity from gorgeous willow pattern crockery to a lemon zester. All in all, it’s the perfect spot to rustle up some freshly procured pheasant (or a few staples from SuperValu in Cappoquin).
Salterbridge Lodge also offers an abundance of autumn surrounding its grounds. I stumble upon the owner of the adjacent estate who tips me off to the surrounding Coillte trails; impressive routes above the Blackwater where the trees are gently rusting above a crop of blackberries, rowan, and juniper berries. Elsewhere along the valley, there is a veritable labyrinth of lumber to explore. Glenshelane Woods east of Cappoquin features four marked trails; The Ballysaggartmore Towers west of Lismore is a short but impressive loop; while Lady Louisa’s walk, which crescendos at Lismore Castle is one of the most romantic rambles in the country. Beyond the region you’ll find stunning photo stops, too. The Hindu-Gothic Dromana Gate (best popped into Google maps) is a treasure of a folly which merits a quick detour, while across the Blackwater, the local road round around Killahala Quay winds along the water as oak, willow and yew trees spill down the riverbank in one of Ireland’s most impressive habitats of wet woodlands. Although just a few miles from my home in East Cork, there's always such a rustic romanticism in this part of the country. When it comes to autumn escapes, West Waterford is certainly one to log in your books.
Salterbridge Gatelodge can be booked from €340 for two nights. It sleeps two and is also dog-friendly (just note that the shared entrance means the yard is not contained). While in the area, check out Lismore farmers market and fuel yourself up at Barron’s bakery — one of the country’s best bakeries which makes a great place to start your day. It’s easy to fall for Cappoquin.
Ciao Venezia! If you’re thinking of a spring break in 2022, how about a trip to Italy’s capital of romance? Fresh from its exciting expansion announcements just last week, Cork Airport also revealed that a twice-weekly service to Venice will take off next year. The route will begin from March 29 with flights operating on Tuesdays and Saturdays — a handy timeframe for a long weekend in Italia. Return flights teeter around €100 return including baggage.
The idea of spending the festive season on the slopes may have gone off-piste during the pandemic, but now European skiing deals are back on the Christmas list, with pretty inviting rates too. Crystal Ski has a series of breaks with the Pyrenean principality of Andorra offering some of the best value. A seven-night stay in the resort village of Arinsal, based on self-catering accommodation in the 3* Sant Roma Apartments, starts from €549pps or €1,669 for two adults and two children. Crystal also offers sweet deals for Italy, Austria and France, too.
Halloween is on the horizon and that can only mean one thing for Irish hotels: spooktacular midterm deals! Clontarf Castle is offering a Halloween package (from October 21 to November 1) from €220 per night, based on a family room. The deal includes their Artisan Castle breakfast each morning and dinner one evening for two adults and two children in Knights Bar (clontarfcastle.ie). For a one-night break in the city centre, Brooks Hotel in Temple Bar is offering a one-night deal which features a Halloween movie in their in-house screening room as well as home-made Halloween treats including their ghostly meringues! From €295 for two adults and one child and you can add a second night from €150.
Cork seems to have more hotel bar openings than Manhattan these days from Sophie’s at The Dean to The Glasshouse at The Montenotte. Now entering the stage is Sketch — the all-new cocktail bar at The Imperial Hotel on Cork’ South Mall. The venue offers a Great Gatsby, retro feel with its stylish interiors while the cocktails crafted here feature a strictly local spirits menu — and you can pair them with birdcage sharing platters featuring produce sourced from the English market. Make a night of it with October room only rates from €158 per night.
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