Check out: Three luxury escapes

From your own house, to the big house... for a weekend or so, anyway

Carton House: even the name infers grandeur

Carton House

Love a little period drama? Over the last decade or two, being a guest of honour in a historic Irish estate has never been easier in Ireland, thanks to a growing trend of manor-to-hotel makeovers, from Castlemartyr Resort in East Cork to super-exclusive Ballyfin in Co. Laois. 

And thanks to the Netflix appeal of series like Bridgerton and Downton Abbey, you could say the manor allure has never been more — in demand. To channel my own Earl of Grantham, I checked into Carton House in Co. Kildare; one of Ireland’s finest country estates which, now managed by the Fairmount group, has just reopened its Georgian doors following a multi-million makeover. 

Even the very name Carton House (derived from the Irish word for pillar stone rather than an Anglo-Irish dynasty) exudes a certain je-ne-sais-quoi kudos, and arriving through the gates of the historic Kildare estate, that image of luxury rings through.

The spectacular, Palladian-style demesne pans across the tranquil River Rye like a historical watercolour, with the property’s more recent add-ons sensitively shrouded by the woodlands. Once inside, a new glass vestibule reception and veritable infinity corridor marks the divide between the original manor and a 150 room Garden Wing. 

I’m hunkering down in the former and following a friendly check-in, receptionist Martyna leads me through a series of ornate period rooms and original stone stairways to one of the manor’s 18 historic chambers. Feeling like I was to the manor born, the Earl’s Room, one of Carton House’s period suites would be my base for my stay. 

The House Deluxe State Room at Carton House.

It’s a room of suitably lofty proportions; a comfy king bed, generous seating area for four and original low-set windows peering over Carton’s ornate gardens and trademark Tyrconnell Tower. I’m told the room has been sensitively decorated to the period, yet there are elements I feel could tap into the era better; perhaps hardwood floors rather than carpet, a four poster bed rather than my loft style leaba and vintage art rather than a smattering of small, contemporary frames which seem a little lost in that wallpaper. 

Other period rooms I have the opportunity to tour seem to have a more effective finish but for €495 a night, I’d like to be wowed rather than reimaging interiors. For more traditional luxury, the signature Fairmont king and queen rooms in the resort’s new wing, some with balconies, start from €250 per night.

At Your Service

Even for someone who’s never held a 9-iron in their lives, Carton’s 18 inch golf course with views sweeping over to the Wicklow Mountains strikes as an impressive course to tee off in. The hotel also has a luxury spa (found via some convoluted corridors), a pool and fitness centre. 

I hit the upstairs cardio room as a group of young lads enter the pool below me for a series of water drills. I initially thought Maynooth’s local GAA squad had buffed up a notch before realising I was being joined by the Irish rugby team in the midst of a training camp!

Elsewhere, the grounds wow with over 1000 acres of parkland to explore with activities like tennis, bike hire and falconry on offer.

Carton House’s dining rooms must rank as some of the most impressive in Ireland and for dinner, I availed of the taster menu in their jaw-droppingly sumptuous Morrison Room Dishes included St Tola goat’s cheese curd with beetroot, halibut with roasted cauliflower fleurets while a dessert of estate honey pannacotta, paired with a delicious Gewürztraminer was a highlight. 

For €95, I found the dishes a little underwhelming, but the service and surroundings were outstanding. If fine-dining isn’t to your palette, Kathleen’s Kitchen, uniquely set in Carton’s original house kitchen, is a beautifully designed bistro-style spot serving pasta dishes, local charcuterie and stone baked flatbreads. Breakfast the next morning was served in the exceptional Gold Room. 

I enjoyed the simple pleasure of gluten free oats served with local honey and a delicious bowl of fresh fruits with fresh cherries and cape gooseberries. Carton House sits at the door of the Royal Canal Greenway, Ireland’s longest greenway which now stretches 130km from Maynooth to Clonlara in Co. Longford (bike hire available in Maynooth). 

Elsewhere, nearby attractions include the stunning heritage site of Castletown House as well as neighbouring Maynooth Castle. Carton House’s sprawling estate straddles both Kildare and Meath so attractions like the Hill of Tara as well as the Boyne Valley’s fantastic food scene should also be on your list.

Check out?

Carton House offers guests the dream of overnighting in what is certainly one of the most magnificent period properties. It’s a remarkable demesne but for my taste, the finish of my manor room at €495 was a rung down the peerage ladder for earl standards.

My tip? Book a lovely Garden Wing room, dine in Kathleen’s Kitchen and enjoy one of the stunning dining rooms for breakfast. For more, see cartonhouse.com

Glenlo Abbey Hotel

The exterior of Glenlo Abbey Hotel.

Poetically rising from the waters of Lough Corrib since the 18th Century, Glenlo Abbey Hotel & Estate, Bushypark, Galway, is a dreamy spot to unwind in the West.

The five-star property has just undergone a trove of renovations including refurbishment of The Tapestry, The French Room, and The Abbey rooms, new bedroom additions and a new boutique spa. 

The Pulman Restaurant, created from two original carriages from the Orient Express, makes a First Class dining option too. B&B from €390; glenloabbeyhotel.ie

Faithlegg Hotel

The Lady Olivia suite at Faithlegg House Hotel.

Four-star Faithlegg Hotel at the scenic head of Waterford harbour offers chapters of period drama without some of the loftier price tags elsewhere. 

The 18th-century estate, which underwent a revamp three years ago, offers all the bells and whistles of your classic manor resort with spa, golf course, tennis while I find their dining, with head chef Jenny Flynn at the toque, particularly impressive. 

Deluxe doubles start from €229 but their four poster period rooms, starting from €329 are worth the investment.

faithlegg.com