Five rural getaways on or near Munster's mountains
Mahon Falls Walk, Waterford
After five months on 'Corkdown', I finally crossed county lines this week and headed for a road-trip (formerly known as a Sunday spin) to one of my favourite local destinations, The Vee. The stunning Knockmealdown mountain pass, which serpentines the border between Tipperary and Waterford is a particular hiking pleasure at this time of year. The views are spectacular, the sheep and lambs are in a bleating abundance and the crowds are as busy as they ever get, given the annual rhododendron pop. Indeed, the true highlight of the Knockmealdowns is that the mountains feel largely so much more untouristed than many of the ranges in the West. And that’s the ultimate USP of the region’s green-focused tourism brand — the Munster Vales.
Spanning the Comeraghs in West Waterford to the Ballyhouras in both North Cork & Limerick, the Munster Vales was launched to promote this frequently bypassed ridge of the province surrounding the Golden Vale.
“We’re a unique destination within five mountain ranges, showcasing the best of rural tourism in Munster,” Mairead Winters, tourism marketing officer of Munster Vales told me this week.
“What makes us different is that, while the great outdoors has been a buzzword of late, we've always had the outdoors at the core of our offering here; from our blueway and greenway stretch to our outstanding activities horse-riding and mountain bike-riding.”
It’s this mass exodus to the great outdoors which is rightly putting the stunning Munster Vales on the tourism radar — after all, who hasn’t been tempted to hike the Galtees while zipping past them on the M8? Today, this new tourism impetus is fuelling its own eclectic range of enterprises in the region, from bike rentals to pop-up coffee shops.
CLIMATE & SUSTAINABILITY HUB
Just last week, Una Fitzpatrick from Carrick-on-Suir opened her new Blueway Çafé outside the town. “Well, I love baking and I’ve always dreamed of opening a coffee shop,” she tells me.
“I’d looked into getting a mortgage for a spot in the town but as I live right on the Blueway — or the riverbank as we’d always called it — I saw the opportunity and thought why not!”
After initially looking at purchasing a barista van, Montessori teacher, Una, gutted and remodelled an old caravan sitting (pretty fortuitously!) on her family’s land and now offers Blueway visitors a caffeine fix from Friday to Sunday.
“I serve Lavazza coffee and home-baking, from my hot Blueway brownie to my Fishermen’s Deal of tea and biscuits! People are really supportive and are delighted to have the option to have a coffee while enjoying the Blueway” As for the Munster Vales’ emergence in the spotlight, Una is enthusiastic and proud of her hinterland’s hidden appeal.
“Well it’s just so scenic here! I’m telling you, on a sunny day, when you’ve the Suir, the blue skies, the yellow from the rapeseed fields — along with our wildlife the egrets, the swans and even the otters — it’s honestly just breath-taking here.”
Feeling inspired? Here are five fantastic spots to enjoy a rustic break with a change.
Located in a former Sisters of Mercy convent on the foothills of the Knockmealdowns, the Old Convent in Clogheen, offers its guests gourmet getaways of, well, biblical proportions. Right off the grounds of the historic property are fantastic trails leading right into the wilds of the mountains, while come evening, you can indulge in The Old Convent’s eight-course taster menu, served in the property’s wonderfully ambient church. Beyond Clogheen, enjoy natural wonders from the Mitchelstown Caves to heritage sites like Lismore Castle, Cahir Castle and the Swiss Cottage.
From €355 per couple incl. dinner. theoldconvent.ie
“Bedrooms in a meadow, rooms in the view” That’s the tagline at Nire Valley Eco Camp: an eco-sensitive collection of five cabins nestled between the Comeraghs & Knockmealdowns. Sustainability is at the forefront here: the cabins are made from local Irish timber, are solar-powered and even rain-water is harvested. You can load your kitchenette with goodies from the market towns of Dungarvan or Clonmel or dine out in excellent spots like Hanora’s Cottage or Cookhouse 360. Delicious continental and vegetarian breakfasts are also served here, plus the cabins are dog friendly.
From €132 per couple per night (two night minimum); nirevalleyecocamp.com
To explore the biking, hiking and horse-riding haven of the Ballyhouras, the Charleville Park Hotel makes an inviting base. Priding itself on the personal touch, the hotel can advise on all the best local routes, arranges local hiking guides, and offers excellent picnic boxes, loaded with local items, including Bluebell Falls goats cheese, Ballyhoura Apple Juice and Croom Organic Eggs. The hotel’s sauna and pool make the perfect spot to relax in after a day’s trekking and you’ll get a hand with your laundry if you’re caught in a downpour!
B&B/room only rates from an excellent €100/€80; charlevilleparkhotel.com
Looking for a rustic retreat? Patrick Mulcahy, also known as The Mindful Farmer, and his wife Miriam offer guests an idyllic refuge at Ballinwillin House Farm, located at the foot of the Galtee Mountains. The boutique B&B, set on an organic wild boar and deer farm, offers everything from wine tastings (thanks to the family’s own winery in Hungary!) to their very own 'culinary retrEATs'; a fusion experience of dining, mindfulness and meditation.
B&B from €50pps; ballinwillinhouse.com
For a dreamy base along the River Suir, check into the Raheen House, a gorgeous period manor in Clonmel with a history dating back to the 17th century. From your heritage base, enjoy a trip to the iconic Rock of Cashel followed by a meal at Mikey Ryan’s happening gastropub or rent a rothar from Blueway Bike Hire and spin from Carrick-on-Suir to Cahir.
From €70pps; raheenhouse.ie
For an alternative base, the Minella Hotel, currently riding high on the back of the eponymous Grand National winner, offers packages from Blueway bike hire to visits to Fethard Horse Museum.
B&B from €75pps; hotelminella.com
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