Royal Canal — taking Ireland's greenways up a gear
The Johnstown Estate Bedroom 7.jpg
The landscape of Irish tourism is changing — literally — as our new and ever-burgeoning greenways weave around the nation. From Mayo’s pioneering Great Western trail which opened back in 2011, to the massively popular Waterford Greenway along the Déise coast, Ireland’s arteries of outdoor adventure are wooing us like never before. And now enter a new player — the Royal Canal Greenway. The 130km route which meanders through the Midlands along the banks of the historic waterway is now the longest greenway in the country — it's three times the length of any other in the land. Ireland’s greenways really have just gone up a gear.
What makes the Royal Canal Greenway so exciting as an attraction is that, unlike our existing greenways which are, for the most part, day-trip affairs, this Waterways Ireland route allows visitors to tour off on multiple day adventures, in a safe, traffic-free setting. In an age when tangible, bucket-list experiences are so popular you can now meander your way through Longford, Westmeath, Meath and Kildare in one staycation — with plans to tweak the route to Dublin in the pipeline too. Shorter stretches are also an option and visitors can explore designated routes, ranging from 6km to 15km, via 14 access points and towns along the route.
As for that route: once the turf of horse-drawn barges and now the terrain of e-bikers, joggers and dog-walkers, the former tow-path follows the 225-year-old canal from Maynooth in County Kildare to Cloondara in County Longford, with Mullingar being the largest downtown fix along the way. Ninety bridges, 33 locks, 17 harbours and four aqueducts mark the largely rustic route which is largely flat.
Visitors can cycle between any of the main towns along the route, returning by train to where they started. But to keep things more pedestrian, walking the route is also a legit option. History lovers will also appreciate that the 165km National Famine Way, which follows the footsteps of the 1,490 emigrants who walked from Roscommon to Dublin at the peak of the Famine in 1847, also largely follows the greenway. It all adds depth to this canal amenity which is being hailed as a game-changer for Irish tourism, and adds colour to the increasing palette of green tourism in the country. Here’s a brief how-to of getting started on the route.
Bike rental options have been sprouting up across the region as the greenway got the green light. Royal Canal Bike Hire offer rentals from Maynooth from €25 per day (€15 for kids) and also offer a collection service as far west as Cloondara, County Longford for an additional €25. You’ll also find options in Mullingar and Cloondara with outfitters typically providing a range of both regular and hybrid bikes and offering a recovery service available up to a certain radius. No harm reacquainting yourself with how to fix a puncture and wonky chain either.
Bringing your own bike will be the most trusted option for many. The main Dublin to Sligo rail line runs pretty much parallel to the Royal Canal, so every gateway to the greenway from Maynooth to Longford, is served by Irish Rail. Passengers are permitted to bring bikes aboard most trains (pre-book where possible) but do bear in mind that some peak hour services are off-limits due to capacity.
Whether renting or using your own wheels, ensure your accommodation option will also house your rothar safely overnight. irishrail.ie
This is a ribbon of the Midlands that doesn’t get a lot of tourism spotlight but build it and (225 years later) they will come.
Apart from the obvious serenity of the canal itself and its scenic flora and fauna, you’ll find more. In Mullingar, you can make the switch from greenway to blueway and go kayaking, canoeing or paddle-boarding from the town harbour. And I’m pretty fascinated by the idea of a visit to the Corlea Trackway in Longford.
The lesser-known Heritage Ireland site is said to be one of the oldest roadways in Europe and its interpretative centre features an 18metre stretch of preserved, ancient oak which originally marked the Iron Age route.
Cross the River Shannon from Cloondara and Keenan’s boutique hotel (keenanshotel.ie; €130) in Termonbarry, County Roscommon makes a great spot to overnight while the village’s award-winning Purple Onion restaurant will refuel you in style. Midway in Mullingar, Annebrook House Hotel (annebrook.ie) offer bike-friendly self-catering apartments from a very decent €99, while The Johnstown Estate in Enfield is a gorgeous spot to relax from €129 (thejohnstownestate.com). Set in an 18th century Palladian mansion, Carton House in Maynooth is the luxury carrot stick to see you over the finish line with rooms from €225; cartonhouse.com. All rates are based on a B&B stay for two in July.
For more, visit royalcanalsgreenway.org
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