Yearning for a return to lovely Laois after a Heritage Hotel stay
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THE drive to the five-star Heritage Hotel and Spa in Killenard, Co Laois, takes approximately two hours from Cork, and so to the pass the time, my guest and I played a podcast in the car.
We chose an old This American Life episode which featured a story from author Malcolm Gladwell as he regaled an audience on his first journalism job at The Washington Post.
He spoke of a competition he and a fellow writer had to get the phrase “perverse and often baffling” into the newspaper, which he eventually did after many tireless efforts. This couldn’t have been a more perfect way to describe the potent country smells which greeted us on our arrival at the hotel which, throughout the weekend, were indeed at times perverse but quite often baffling.
Upon greeting us, general manager Andrew Phelan was quick to point out that this a positive thing, evidence that the local farmers were working hard and taking advantage of the dry weather, and he was right; we certainly enjoyed the bounty of local produce served at the hotel during our stay.
We were shown to our room, where fruit bowls and greeting cards provided nice touches to the lavishly decorated lodgings, which were tastefully done in golden tones of brocade and ceramic.
After a few Friday night drinks in the Slieve Bloom Bar, listening to live music which is performed at evenings and weekends, we retired for a restful sleep in our soundless surroundings.
The following morning, we faced a tough decision: what to choose for breakfast? With everything from eggs benedict to local porridge available, in addition to an extensive range of gluten free options, there is no shortage of choice when it comes to arming yourself with sustenance for a day of relaxation or activities.
We headed straight for the spa, where we could easily have spent the day gliding from room to room like two zen, bergamot-smelling prunes. However, the two hours we actually spent there were fabulous, and what we experienced of the extensive Thermal Suite left us feeling both relaxed and invigorated. The spa features a range of heating and cooling rooms and multi-sensory showers, as well as a fitness centre and pool.
It was great to see the Voya range being used, the organic seaweed-based products made by an Irish family-owned business, as well as the upscale ESPA therapies.
I had a one-hour facial treatment under the very capable hands of my therapist Lisa, which was doubly beneficial in that it was not only calming but also also left my skin glowing and refreshed. At the end, Lisa gave me a skin consultation on the type of products which would be best for my skin, and then sent me off to sit back with a herbal tea in front of a blazing fire in the nearby relaxation room.
It was a struggle to get up, believe me, but the sights and sounds of Laois beckoned. After a quick lunch in the bar we set off from Killenard to nearby Vicarstown, absolutely lifting from our seats at every pothole, where we would begin our cycling route along the Grand Canal. Barrow Bikes provided us with our wheels and off we cruised.
The route along Barrow Way and quiet country roads is perfect for even the most inexperienced cyclist; the bikes are light and easy to manage and the terrain is flat. We hadn’t cycled in years but we’re now planning a Tour de Déise at Waterford’s Greenway.
We were blessed with the weather, and it was nothing short of miraculous that we were able to sit out in the sun at our next destination, the Fisherman’s Thatched Inn. This quaint pub, complete with an open fire and packed to the hilt with intriguing bric a brac, is a gem on weeknights and weekends for live music and a good pint.
We spent the afternoon basking in the rare glorious sunshine, listening to the local history told by charismatic proprietor Sean Ward and enjoying locally brewed craft beers and premium gin and tonics which would rival those found in any trendy Dublin bar.
That night, Heritage head chef Ian Clifford treated us to a five-course tasting menu which was an absolute culinary tour-de-force.
There is nothing better than dishes which utilise local produce in its best form and this was certainly the case here.
There was nothing perverse nor baffling about the tender rack of lamb or fillet of beef provided by nearby farmers, or the vegetables that were so fresh they could have been picked that very day. A dainty pea soup, indulgent duck pâté, crispy halibut and a piquant blueberry parfait completed the meal, which left many diners with empty plates and a catalogue of snaps ready for Instagram.
We were still stuffed the next morning but, like the true martyrs that we are and for the sake of research, of course, we managed to tuck into fluffy omelettes and strong americanos. If we had more time that day, we definitely would have sampled the afternoon tea which, accompanied by a grand piano and open fire, would have been a real treat. Thankfully, there is the golf course, tennis courts and a 5km walking trail at the hotel to work off some of the calories.
As a boy, the hotel manager Andrew Phelan spent his evenings after school watching his confectioner father create intricate cakes adorned with gold leaves and perfectly-piped icing at their cake shop in Waterford City. That attention to detail is a trait which Andrew has brought with him to his work, and it is omniscient at the Heritage. The unfalteringly courteous staff are a testament to that.
Laois received the least amount of funding from Fáilte Ireland last year, and it’s not often top of people’s list when it comes to holiday destinations. But with hotels like the Heritage easily accessible from Dublin, Cork and elsewhere, and cycling routes, barge cruises and historic sites like The Rock of Dunamase all nearby, that may soon change.
Apparently, Laois is Ireland’s “most passed-through county”. Next time, exit the motorway and don’t let its charms pass you by.
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