Style on the slopes in the Dolomites region of northern Italy
Whisper it in case you cause an avalanche of criticism, but there’s a hidden secret most people who take skiing trips are always reluctant to share with non-travellers when they return home.
For every picture of a pristine, blinding-white slope slicing a path through a sea of mountain tops peering out from a crisp blue alpine sky, there is another image of the winter wonderland that is simply hushed up by tight - and chapped - lips.
It’s not the hangovers caused by one two many apres-ski gluhweins.
Let’s be honest, everyone has already heard enough about those frightful early morning sights to last a lifetime.
It’s not even the terror in a skier’s eyes as they take a looping turn across a slope only to suddenly be face-to-face - and, mili-seconds later, face-to-ground - with a snowboarder hurtling straight toward you in a futile attempt to break the speed of sound which ends up just breaking your bones and confidence.
And it’s not even those rather odd yellow markings no one seems to want to acknowledge which are sometimes found at the top of the blackest of black slopes.
No. The simple fact is the one, hidden horror of a week-long ski adventure is your best friends. Or, more precisely, your proximity to them as cabin fever begins to set in after another hard day on the mountain.
Due to the often sky-high costs of a holiday to the winter wonderlands of continental Europe and beyond, groups usually have to bunk up with each other in fun, but relatively basic, hostels and de facto motels, which often leave space at a minimum.
The atmosphere usually starts in jovial fashion, with late night/early morning parties and laughs mixing perfectly with what awaits on the array of slopes available.
However, given the fact any ski trip usually involves at least one week away, after a few days the reality of living cheek to jowl with your mates can prove a minor but apparent issue for people exhausted from their working lives, with sweaty ski socks, pools of melting snow and little room to rest your battered body effectively becoming the dark under-belly of the otherwise ideal trip away.
It is normally a mere bump in the road any skier has to put up with if they want to take a trip they have been waiting for all year.
However, for those willing to pay for it and who are happy to put up with the equal ignominy of a gentle slagging for seeking a more comfortable route, there is another way.
As part of its “finest” collection, Irish operator Crystal Ski has a number of four and five star spa hotels available to ski-goers in some of the most picturesque parts of continental Europe.
And during a March visit to the Selva del Gardena resort in the Dolomites region of northern Italy, it was keen to show off a different type of ski holiday, which ensures potential holiday makers can benefit from a much-needed few days of relaxation at the same time as hitting the slopes — both figuratively, and inevitably, literally — the area has to offer.
During our five days in the cliff-hanging location the Irish Examiner and a number of other media outlets were housed in the 4.5 star Hotel Tyrol, just metres from the first chair lifts.
Complete with spa, large en suite bedrooms, private bathroom, massage areas and a local restaurant specialising in the regions rare Austrian-Italian food mixture — Selva was until World War II part of Austria, with many locals still associating themselves with the nearby country — the stunning hotel is, while pricey at €1,379 half-board per person for one week, effectively a holiday in itself.
After a long day traipsing through the ski resort, the knowledge that you could relax in comfort and opulence in the traditional Alpine chalet-style decor which also contains an indoor heated (thankfully) pool, fully-equipped fitness room and wellness centre, indoor and outdoor hot-tubs and a well-stocked Italian wine cellar, is always to look forward.
A kids playroom and sauna/solarium further adds to the appeal of the relaxed hotel, which is run to perfection by a local woman who first met her now husband and hotel co-owner when he visited the area many years ago. And who said holiday romances never last?
While the hotel itself is worth checking out, the fact is, a winter holiday 2,500-3,500 kilometres skyward is still all about one thing: skiing.
Although Selva may not be on the top of Irish people’s radars, it is officially the biggest ski resort in the world, and it shows.
Just yards from the locker room of the hotel — and the nearby more traditional and equally charming Wiesenheim and Posta al Cervo apartments — sit some of the most eye-catching slopes in Europe.
To be precise, more than 1,400 kilometres-worth, which local tour guides Diego Clara (Dolomiti Super Ski) and Claudia Rier (South Tirol/Alpe du Siusi) are keen to point out makes the area the largest ski resort on the planet.
It is difficult to personally verify the claim without travelling all 1,400 kilometres of blue, red and black slopes before watching your leg muscles eventually just give up and go home.
owever, judging by the 120-plus kilometres of slopes checked out during the five-day trip Selva is at a minimum on a par with the best France (the Tri Vallees) and Austria has to offer, in part because of the centre-piece of the resort which is genuinely an eye-catching sight.
Everywhere you are in Selva, you will see the intimidating Sella mountain, which is the most famous part of the area’s ski tradition, due to the fact a high-profile “Sella Ronda” circular route allows visitors to ski 42 kilometres around the land mass, including a 26 kilometre entirely downward route in a single day.
For those not quite up to the challenge - despite finally, if reluctantly, becoming acquainted with the joint thrill/terror of black slopes the Sella Ronda is not on the bucket list just yet — beacons of relaxation are also scattered throughout the slopes.
And, as with any ski holiday, that can mean only one thing: alcohol and food.
Given the fact the area is strongly influenced by both Alpine Austrian and Mediterranean Italian cultures, the food on offer in the 400 high-class food “huts” peppered throughout the area is naturally something to get your teeth into when the mountains defeat you.
Similarly, on occasion the outside gardens of pubs which seem to cling onto the mountain-side are often the location for unexpected concerts to rival those down at hotel level (the Luis Keller), with the Friday before our group returned to Ireland resulting in an impromptu rock gig which led more than a few revellers to drink the evening away.
Just one word of caution: while it is fun at the time, and the sunset ski back home is intoxicating in itself, be wary of becoming too “festive” when you still have to ski down what is still a potentially dangerous and ever more icy mountain as night is setting in.
In order to make it back, hopefully in one piece, to Ireland, a reasonable journey from Selva to Verona, home of the the nearest airport, is necessary.
The location gives holiday-makers an opportunity to take in the world-renowned setting for Romeo and Juliet, adding another layer to the perfect ski holiday for someone hoping to get some rest as well as some fun on the slopes.
The biggest ski resort in the world, stunning views, comfortable top quality hotels, spas, impromptu rock concerts, the chance to visit one of Shakespeare’s favourite settings for his plays and no wet socks in confined spaces (at least none that aren’t your own).
When it comes to a ski holiday with a difference, what more could you really want?
FLIGHTS
Fly direct from Dublin to Verona, northern Italy, every Saturday with Crystal Ski, with direct connections to Selva also covered in packages. Average flight time is 2 hrs 30 mins.
Further details available from www.crystalski.ie on 01-4331010.
CHECK IN
Enjoy the slope-side 4.5 star Hotel Tyrol in the heart of Selva val Gardena, which is part of Crystal Ski’s “finest” collection.
Prices for a week-long stay start at €1,379 half board per person. Full details can be found at: http://www.crystalski.ie/ski-resorts/italy-ski-holidays/selva-val-gardena/tyrol-hotel/
Alternatively, the nearby 3 star self-catering Wiesenheim apartments are available for €549 for four people sharing, while the 3 star half-board Posta al Cervo is another option at €819 per person.
WHEN TO VISIT
As with all ski holidays, the best time to enjoy the full array of slopes on offer is between late November and early February.
However, due to the range of ski areas on offer in Selva val Gardena, including 1,200km of slopes, trips into late March and even early April are on offer.
CHECK OUT
If you have time, the 42km Sala della Ronda trek at the heart of the Dolomites destination is a must.
For those looking to relax, try out the nearby spas, 400 high-class food and drinks “huts” peppered around the resort and nearby town for apres ski.
Flying into the picturesque city of Verona allows visitors the potential added perk of tagging on an extra few days in the home of Romeo and Juliet.
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